Khajuraho & the Humidity: A Photographer's Slightly Sweaty Confession
okay, so khajuraho. it’s…a lot. i wasn’t really prepared for the sheer weight of history, honestly. i mean, i knew about the *temples, obviously, everyone does. but walking around them? it’s different. it’s like the stones are breathing, or judging you, or both.
my whole trip was kinda built around chasing light, you know? as a freelance photographer, that’s just…life. and the light here is weird. it’s almost…thick. i just checked and it’s hovering around twenty-five degrees, with the air feeling like a warm hug you didn’t ask for. the humidity is nineteen percent, which honestly feels like a lie. it feels like ninety-nine. i’ve been chugging water like it’s going out of style.
spent most of yesterday wandering around the western group of temples. the carvings…wow. seriously. i’ve seen a lot of ancient stuff, but the detail here is just insane. it’s not just religious stuff either, there’s a lot of…well, let’s just say it’s very open about the human body. which, honestly, is refreshing. i overheard someone at a cafe saying that the guides will give you the “family friendly” tour if you look like you’re traveling with kids, which is…smart.
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“apparently, old man Sharma swears the carvings change position at night. says they’re ‘alive’ or something. he’s been drinking chai since breakfast, though, so take it with a grain of salt.”
my gear list is a mess, as usual. i’m trying to travel lighter, but it never works.
Canon EOS R5 (obvs)
24-70mm f/2.8 (my workhorse)
70-200mm f/2.8 (for those distant details)
A whole lot of SD cards (never enough)
Portable hard drive (because losing photos is my biggest fear)
Bug spray (seriously, the mosquitos are relentless)
A ridiculous amount of sunscreen
found a really cool little guesthouse near the *bus stand. it’s basic, but clean, and the owner makes amazing chai. i’ve been trying to learn a few phrases in hindi, but i’m failing spectacularly. i think i accidentally asked a shopkeeper if he was a monkey yesterday. it was…awkward. if you’re looking for somewhere to stay, check out TripAdvisor reviews. i also saw some chatter on Lonely Planet's Thorn Tree forum about good local guides.
someone told me that the sound and light show at the western group of temples is cheesy, but worth it for the atmosphere. i haven’t gone yet, but i’m tempted. i also heard that the eastern group of temples is less crowded, which is appealing. i’m not a huge fan of fighting through hordes of tourists to get a good shot.
apparently, the locals are pretty chill, but you gotta be respectful. cover your shoulders and knees when visiting the temples, and don’t be a jerk. it’s pretty simple, really. if you get bored, Jhansi and Bandhavgarh National Park are just a short drive away. i’m thinking of heading to the park next, maybe try to spot a tiger.
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“my cousin’s friend, who’s a driver, said you can haggle hard* with the auto-rickshaw drivers. Like, really hard. They start high, apparently.”
overall, khajuraho is…intense. it’s beautiful, it’s fascinating, it’s hot, and it’s definitely not what i expected. i’m already planning my next trip back. maybe i’ll bring a fan. and a translator. and a lot more water. you can find more info on the official Madhya Pradesh Tourism website. Also, Yelp has some restaurant reviews, though they're a bit sparse.
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“Old Man Patel warned me about the monkeys stealing your snacks. He said they’re professionals. Apparently, they have a whole network.”
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