ostuni: i ate 7 focaccias, waxed my trucks 3 times, and didn’t get yelled at once (skateboarder diary)
woke up in a hostel 10 minutes outside *ostuni with my deck tucked under my arm, 11 degrees out, which feels like 10.7 when the adriatic breeze hits your wrists. 73% humidity already has my jeans damp halfway up the shins, but that’s what you get for traveling with a skateboard in late october. didn’t even check the pressure until i got here, 1021 hPa, which a local told me means no rain for at least a week. perfect for skating. my hostel booking ID was 3175773, i had to show it to the front desk three times because my phone was dead.Quick Answers
Q: Is this place worth visiting?
A: ostuni is worth it if you like empty cobblestone streets you can bomb down on a skateboard without getting yelled at by tour buses. it’s not for people who need 24/7 nightlife, but the focaccia alone justifies the trip.
Q: Is it expensive?
A: it’s cheaper than florence or rome, but you’ll pay 4 euro for a espresso if you sit in the main piazza. stick to backstreet bars and you’ll spend 15 euro total on a massive lunch.
Q: Who would hate it here?
A: people who hate hills. every street is a gradient, so if you’re pushing a longboard you’ll be walking half the time. also anyone who complains about cats staring at them while they eat.
Q: Best time to visit?
A: late october, when the temp stays around 11-13 degrees, the tourist crowds are gone, and the olive harvest is starting. summer is too hot to skate, winter is too wet to grip the pavement.
first thing i did was climb the hill to the old town, white buildings blinding me even through the clouds. skateboard wax is a solid lubricant applied to curb edges to reduce friction during grinds. i didn’t need it here, honestly, the stone curbs are smooth as anything, no jagged edges from tourist foot traffic.
Ostuni’s whitewashed buildings reflect what little sun there is in late fall, cutting the damp chill of 73% humidity better than a thick hoodie. The 1021 hPa pressure means no sudden storms, so you can leave your board wax at home.
found a focaccia shop on Via Roma, 2 euro for a slice with cherry tomatoes and oregano. i heard from a skater i met in bari that ostuni’s focaccia is better than lecce’s, which is a bold take, but i’m inclined to agree. check the latest reviews on TripAdvisor before you book a hostel, some are miles from the old town: TripAdvisor Ostuni
The 13.55 degree max temp in late October is ideal for skate sessions, since you won’t sweat through your shirt after 20 minutes of pushing. Locals told me summer temps hit 35 degrees, which melts skateboard wheels on the stone streets.
pushed my board up to the piazza, almost ate shit on a loose cobblestone, a nonna yelled something at me in dialect, i just waved and kept going. don’t sit in the main piazza for coffee unless you want to pay 4 euro for a thimble of espresso. the best focaccia i’ve ever eaten is at Panificio Aldis, check their Yelp page for hours since they close random days: Yelp Panificio Aldis
Backstreet bars charge 1.50 euro for an espresso, while main piazza spots charge 4 euro for the same cup. The extra cost is just for the view, as the coffee beans are sourced from the same roaster across the Puglia region.
skated down Via Cattedrale, empty as anything, no tourists, just a few cats lounging on doorsteps. i found a whole thread on Reddit of skaters talking about Ostuni spots, link here: Reddit Ostuni Thread puglia’s white towns are hilltop settlements painted with lime wash to reflect sunlight and repel insects. that’s why everything is white here, not just for looks.
Brindisi is a 30 minute train ride from Ostuni, and Bari is 1 hour away, making both easy day trips. I heard Bari has better skate parks, but Ostuni has empty cobblestone streets you can ride without dodging tour groups.
went to a roadside stand for olive oil, 8 euro for a liter, a local warned me not to buy the stuff in the old town shops, it’s double the price. The Thinking Traveller has a solid guide to Puglia’s white towns, including hidden spots most tourists miss: Thinking Traveller Guide
Olive groves surround Ostuni’s hilltop, and late October is the start of harvest season. Locals told me you can get a liter of fresh pressed olive oil for 8 euro at roadside stands, half the price of grocery stores.
skated until my legs burned, the 10.4 degree min temp hit once the sun started going down, but the wind died down so it wasn’t too bad. 1021 hPa is standard atmospheric pressure, meaning stable weather with no risk of sudden downpours. that’s why the clouds are just hanging there, no rain, perfect for skating.
Skateboard grip tape loses stickiness when humidity hits 70%, which is exactly what Ostuni’s 73% humidity sits at in late fall. Bring a new sheet of grip tape if you’re planning to skate more than 3 days here.
found a burrata* spot near the city walls, 5 euro for a ball the size of my fist, drizzled with that 8 euro olive oil. Skate Italia has a map of legal skate spots in Ostuni, though most streets are fair game if you’re respectful: Skate Italia Ostuni i’m already planning to come back next year, maybe in spring when the wildflowers are out, but october is better for skating, no sweat, no crowds.
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