Nairobi: Dust, Drums, and a Seriously Sticky Heat
okay, so nairobi. it’s…a lot. i’m currently sweating through a t-shirt i swore i’d never wear again, and honestly, i’m kinda into it. i’ve been touring with this indie band, ‘Static Bloom,’ for, like, forever, and honestly, the venues all blur together after a while. but nairobi? nairobi’s different. it’s got this energy, this pulse that just grabs you.
we landed a few days ago, and the air hit me like a warm, damp towel. i just checked and it’s…a furnace out there right now, honestly. thirty-two and a half degrees, feels like thirty-four point five five - which, as any drummer knows, is not ideal for keeping your kit in tune. the humidity’s hanging around forty-seven percent, which means my cymbals are constantly threatening to rust into oblivion. pressure’s a solid one thousand and seven, sea level’s the same, but the ground level feels lower, like the city’s breathing. it’s weirdly poetic, actually.
we’re playing at this club called ‘The Alchemist’ - seriously, the name is perfect. it’s tucked away in *Westlands, and getting there is an adventure in itself. the matatus (those crazy minibuses) are a whole other level of chaotic beauty. i swear, the drivers think traffic laws are just…suggestions. i’ve been trying to document it all with my phone, but it’s hard when you’re bracing for impact every five seconds. you can find some reviews of the place on Yelp.
someone told me that the Karura Forest is amazing for a run, but honestly, i’m more interested in finding a decent nyama choma (grilled meat) place. i heard from the sound guy - a total legend named Jomo - that there’s this spot in Dagoretti that’s legendary. he said, and i quote, “You haven’t lived until you’ve had nyama choma with a cold Tusker.” i’m taking him at his word.
“Don’t trust anyone who tells you Nairobi is ‘safe.’ It’s not. It’s…interesting. Just keep your wits about you and don’t flash your cash.”
that was a bartender at a place near our hotel. pretty blunt, right? but also, probably good advice. i’ve been trying to blend in, wearing mostly dark clothes and pretending i know what’s going on. it’s not working. i stick out like a sore thumb.
we spent yesterday wandering around the Maasai Market. it’s a sensory overload - colors, smells, sounds…and a lot of people trying to sell you things. i managed to haggle for a pretty sweet beaded bracelet, but i’m pretty sure i still overpaid. i’ve been reading up on the history of the market on TripAdvisor. it’s fascinating.
if you get bored, Mombasa is just a short flight away, or you can take a train. i’m thinking about heading there after this gig, maybe do some diving. i’ve also heard good things about Lake Nakuru* - apparently, it’s covered in flamingos.
“The traffic here is…a spiritual experience. You either surrender to it or you lose your mind.”
that was our tour manager, after spending an hour stuck in a jam. he was not amused. i, however, found it strangely meditative.
anyway, gotta go. soundcheck’s in an hour, and i need to figure out how to keep my snare drum from turning into a soggy mess. check out The Culture Trip for more info on the city. it's a wild place, nairobi. a really, really wild place. and i wouldn't have it any other way.
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/public-transportation-guide-how-to-get-around-bagam-like-a-local
- https://votoris.com/post/kyotos-got-a-grip-and-maybe-a-ghost-8
- https://votoris.com/post/san-francisco-fog-found-sounds-a-drummers-dispatch
- https://votoris.com/post/havanas-wild-ride-why-this-city-is-blowing-up-and-what-it-means-for-your-next-trip
- https://votoris.com/post/helsinkis-cold-embrace-72-hours-in-a-siberian-sleepwalk