Yerevan: Dust, Apricots, and a Seriously Chill Vibe
okay, so yerevan. it’s…a lot. i didn’t really plan to end up here, honestly. it was a last-minute detour after a gig in tbilisi fell through (drum life, am i right?). and honestly? i’m kinda glad it happened.
first impressions? *dust. like, a fine, apricot-scented dust that gets everywhere. i’m pretty sure i’m exhaling it right now. and the light! it’s this weird, golden, hazy light that makes everything look like a vintage photograph. i’m a touring session drummer, so i’m used to weird lighting, but this is something else. it’s kinda perfect for moody practice sessions, actually.
i just checked and it’s…a constant 9.91 degrees celsius, apparently. feels like 9.91 too, which is…consistent, i guess? the humidity is a bit of a beast at 84%, so my cymbals are definitely feeling it. pressure’s at 1016, sea level’s 1016, and ground level is 874. i don’t even know why i’m telling you this, it’s just what the little weather app keeps yelling at me.
spent yesterday wandering around republic square. it’s…grand. like, aggressively grand. all these huge buildings and fountains. it’s the kind of place that makes you feel small, which, as a drummer, i’m not used to. i usually make the noise. i found a little cafe tucked away on a side street - Jazz Cafe Yerevan - and had some seriously strong coffee. i’m a bit of a coffee snob, and this place did not disappoint. they roast their own beans, which is always a good sign.
blockquote>
"oh, don’t bother with the northern avenue shops," this guy at the coffee shop told me, wiping down the counter. "it’s all just overpriced tourist stuff. go to vernissage. that’s where the real treasures are."
vernissage, apparently, is a massive flea market. i haven’t made it there yet, but it’s high on my list. i’m always on the lookout for weird percussion instruments. you never know what you’ll find. i’ve scored some amazing deals on vintage tambourines and shakers in the past.
people here are…intense. in a good way. they’re really passionate about everything. i overheard someone arguing vehemently about the best way to make dolma (stuffed grape leaves). it was a full-on debate. someone told me that the best dolma is at Lavash Restaurant. i also heard that the service can be a bit slow, but it’s worth it.
if you get restless, georgia is just a quick marshrutka ride away. i’m thinking of heading back there next week, but i’m not in a hurry. yerevan has a certain…pull. it’s not a city that screams at you, it whispers. it’s a city you have to feel*.
the Cascade is pretty cool, too. it’s this giant staircase with sculptures and fountains. you can climb to the top for amazing views of the city. it’s a bit of a hike, but it’s worth it. check out TripAdvisor reviews before you go.
and the apricots! oh my god, the apricots. they’re everywhere. fresh, dried, in jam, in pastries…it’s an apricot paradise. i’m pretty sure i’ve consumed my weight in apricots in the last three days. you can find them at the GUM Market.
blockquote>
"don’t trust the taxi drivers," a local warned me, shaking his head. "they’ll try to rip you off. always agree on a price beforehand."
so yeah, yerevan. it’s dusty, apricot-scented, and surprisingly chill. it’s not a city for everyone, but if you’re looking for something a little different, something a little…real, then i highly recommend it. i’m gonna go find some more apricots now. and maybe a weird drum. Armenia Travel Guide has some good info too.
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/cuenca-ecuador-my-soggy-numberfilled-nightmare
- https://votoris.com/post/lofoten-where-the-north-meets-the-weird
- https://votoris.com/post/local-etiquette-and-traditions-how-not-to-offend-people-in-winnipeg
- https://votoris.com/post/the-real-cost-of-utilities-and-bills-in-bangui
- https://votoris.com/post/lagos-nigeria-mosquitoes-magic-and-a-whole-lotta-hustle