Varanasi Vibes: Drum Beats, Chai Stalls, and a Dash of Chaos
varanasi is the kind of place that grabs you by the collar and doesn't let go. i landed here after a long train ride, my drum kit crammed into a rickety auto-rickshaw, and immediately got lost in the maze of ghats. the city hums with a rhythm all its own-part ancient chants, part honking scooters, part chai vendors shouting over each other. i'm a touring session drummer, so i notice these things. the beat of varanasi is relentless, and honestly? i kinda love it.
i just checked and it's 40.15°c there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the humidity's low at 14%, but the sun? relentless. locals told me to drink at least three liters of water a day, and i ignored them. rookie mistake. by noon, i was chugging lemon soda like it was my job.
*ghat life is where it's at. i spent my first evening at dashashwamedh ghat, where the ganga aarti happens every night. the drumming there? next level. i tried to sneak in a few beats on my djembe, but the priests gave me the side-eye. fair enough. if you're into photography, this is your goldmine. i overheard a freelance photographer saying the golden hour light here is chef's kiss.
"Don't trust the boatmen near manikarnika ghat," a local whispered to me. "They'll charge you triple if they hear your accent."
i took that advice to heart. instead, i found a guy named raju who charged me half the price and told me stories about the burning ghat that gave me chills. varanasi doesn't shy away from death-it embraces it. kinda poetic, if you think about it.
if you get bored, allahabad and bodh gaya are just a short drive away. i didn't make it to either, but a yoga instructor i met swore by bodh gaya for its serene vibes. maybe next time.
food-wise, i lived off kachoris and jalebis from a tiny stall near assi ghat. the guy running it had a tattoo of a drum on his arm, so we bonded over rhythms and fried dough. he also warned me about the lassi at blue lassi shop-"too sweet for real taste," he said. i ignored him, and yeah, it was cloying. lesson learned.
one night, i ended up at a hidden gig in a crumbling haveli. a pro dancer was performing kathak, and the crowd was electric. someone told me that the best music in varanasi isn't in the clubs-it's in the alleys, the temples, the random rooftops. i believe it.
pro tip:* if you're a drummer or just love rhythm, bring your own gear. the local percussionists are insanely talented, but they don't loan out their tabla. also, download offline maps. the wifi here is as unpredictable as the cows.
varanasi is messy, loud, and utterly unforgettable. it's not for everyone, but if you're the kind of traveler who thrives on chaos, this city will steal your heart. just don't forget your water bottle.
Check out more about Varanasi's Ghats on TripAdvisor
Find the best street food spots on Yelp
Explore more about Varanasi's history on History.com
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/quelimane-where-humidity-hugs-you-like-clingy-relatives
- https://votoris.com/post/ahmedabad-through-a-lens-messy-notes-from-a-freelance-shooter
- https://votoris.com/post/juneau-rain-rumors-and-really-weird-mushrooms
- https://votoris.com/post/walking-through-a-dutch-city-that-feels-like-a-secret
- https://votoris.com/post/buenos-aires-drumming-through-the-barrios