Porto: Rain, Sardines, and Seriously Weird Vibes
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm espresso. i landed in porto like, 48 hours ago and my brain feels like a scrambled egg. the humidity is clinging to everything - it’s like a damp, grey hug. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the pressure is 1006, which is… unsettling. honestly, it’s a lot.
porto is… intense. it’s not the postcard-perfect, sun-drenched europe you see on insta. it’s gritty, it’s loud, it’s overflowing with history and a weird, beautiful melancholy. i’m staying in this tiny place near the Ribeira - the riverfront - and it’s basically a warren of cobbled streets and tiny, overflowing shops. the air smells like salt, grilled fish, and something vaguely floral that i can’t quite place.
I stumbled into this place called ‘O Gaveto’ last night. it was packed, and the guy behind the bar - he looked like he’d wrestled a bear and won - just shoved a plate of sardinhas assadas (grilled sardines) in front of me. i wasn’t expecting it, but it was… surprisingly good. someone told me that the best sardines are always served with a generous squeeze of lemon and a shot of vinho verde. i’m taking that to heart.
Speaking of locals, the people here are… direct. they don’t mince words. i tried ordering a coffee at this place called ‘Café Majestic’ and the barista just stared at me and said, ‘black, right?’ no ‘hello,’ no ‘would you like milk?’ just… black. it was a bit intimidating, but also kind of refreshing. if you get bored, Viana do Castelo is just a short drive away.
I spent today wandering around the Livraria Lello, which apparently inspired J.K. Rowling. it’s gorgeous, all stained wood and soaring ceilings, but it was absolutely packed with tourists. i almost lost my mind. i ended up grabbing a pastel de nata from Manteigaria - seriously, don’t leave porto without trying one of those. they’re basically heaven in pastry form.
Here’s the lowdown on what I’ve been up to:
Gear: My battered backpack (it’s seen better days), my trusty camera (the 35mm lens is my best friend), a notebook full of scribbles, and a ridiculously oversized hoodie. I also brought a portable charger - essential for a digital nomad like me. And, of course, a ridiculously large bottle of hand sanitizer. Don’t judge.
*Food: Sardines (obviously), pastel de natas, francesinha (a massive sandwich - it’s a thing here), and vinho verde. I’m pretty sure I’m going to gain five pounds before I leave.
*Activities:* Exploring the Ribeira, visiting the Clérigos Church, wandering through the Serralves Museum, and getting hopelessly lost in the narrow streets. I also checked out TripAdvisor for some hidden gems - apparently, there’s a fantastic seafood restaurant called ‘Marisqueira São Nicolau’ that’s worth the wait. Check it out!
I overheard gossip at a bar about a secret underground wine cellar - something about a family that’s been making wine for centuries. I’m determined to find it. I heard that it’s hidden somewhere beneath the Igreja de São Francisco.
“Don’t tell anyone, but there’s a whole cellar under the church. They only let a few people in, and the wine is… otherworldly.”
I’m also trying to capture the city’s vibe through my photography. it’s hard to describe - it’s a mix of faded grandeur, raw energy, and a quiet, persistent sadness. it’s like the city is carrying a lot of weight, but it’s still beautiful.
I’m heading to the Douro Valley tomorrow - apparently, the views are insane. I’m hoping to find a little quinta (wine estate) where I can spend the afternoon sipping wine and soaking it all in. I found a Yelp review that said, “Best wine tasting ever! The staff were super friendly and the views were breathtaking.” Check it out!
Seriously, this place is wild. I’m going to need more coffee.
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