Nagoya: Lost in Translation (and Ramen)
okay, so nagoya. it wasn't on the list, honestly. i was supposed to be in kyoto, chasing *temples and pretending to understand zen, but a missed train and a seriously compelling discount on a capsule hotel rerouted me. and honestly? i'm kinda glad.
it's…different here. not bad, just…less polished than i expected. more real, maybe? the air feels thick, like a warm blanket you didn't ask for. i just checked and it's hovering around 5.5 celsius, but it feels like you're walking through lukewarm tea. a bit clammy, honestly. the humidity is doing things to my hair.
i spent most of yesterday wandering around the Osu Shopping District. it's a total sensory overload. tiny shops crammed with everything from vintage kimonos to questionable electronics. i swear i saw a store that only sold miniature ceramic frogs. it's a good place to get lost, and i did, repeatedly. i found a little ramen shop tucked away down an alleyway - seriously, the alley was barely wide enough for me to squeeze through - and had the best bowl of miso ramen of my life. i don't even know the name of the place, it just had a red lantern and a lot of steam.
someone told me that the local Nagoya meshi (local cuisine) is seriously underrated. Apparently, everyone goes straight for the ramen, but the hitsumabushi (grilled eel) is where it's at. I overheard it while waiting for a bus.
the people are…reserved. not unfriendly, just…observant. i tried to ask for directions to the Nagoya Castle (which, by the way, is stunning, even if it's mostly a reconstruction - https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g298524-d323344-Reviews-Nagoya_Castle-Nagoya_Aichi_Prefecture.html) and ended up with a five-minute lecture on the history of the tokugawa shogunate. in japanese. i nodded a lot.
i've been staying in a tiny guesthouse near the Sakae district. it's run by a woman named Mrs. Tanaka who doesn't speak a word of english, but communicates entirely through gestures and enthusiastic pointing. she keeps trying to feed me pickled plums. they're…an experience. if you're looking for something a little different, check out https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Guesthouses&find_loc=Nagoya for some options.
i heard from a fellow traveler that the nightlife around Fushimi is pretty wild, but i'm too tired to investigate. honestly, i think i'm running on fumes and instant coffee at this point. i'm starting to suspect my internal clock has given up.
a guy at the bar last night, after several beers, insisted that Nagoya is the "real" Japan. He said Tokyo is just for tourists and that you won't find any "authentic" experiences there. Take that with a grain of salt.
i'm thinking of taking a day trip to Inuyama tomorrow. apparently, it has one of the oldest castles in japan. https://www.japan-guide.com/e/e2166.html i'm also desperately seeking a decent coffee shop. the coffee here is…functional. it gets the job done, but it doesn't exactly sing to your soul. i'm a bit of a coffee* snob, okay? i've been checking out local boards like https://www.reddit.com/r/Nagoya/ for recommendations.
if you get bored, the cities of Kyoto and Osaka are just a quick train ride away. i'm still debating whether to stick to the plan or just keep wandering. honestly, i'm leaning towards wandering. it's how i find the best stuff. and the pickled plums.
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