moscow in the damp: a photographer's sleep-deprived scavenger hunt

okay, so i'm in moscow and i haven't slept in like, 36 hours? whatever. the weather here is... let me check my phone: 6.4°c but feels like 4.4, humidity 70%, pressure 1030 hpa. it's that kind of damp cold that seeps into your bones and makes your camera fog up. i just got back from a walk around the kremlin, and my lens is coated in a fine mist. perfect for atmospheric shots, if you're into that sort of thing.

as a freelance photographer, i'm always chasing the light, but moscow in this weather offers a different palette - all muted greys and browns, with splashes of colour from the few brave souls in bright coats. i'm based out of a hostel in kitay-gorod, which is this old merchant district that's now a mix of hip cafes and soviet-era apartments. the streets are narrow, and you can feel the history pressing in.

i heard from a local at a café that the best light for st. basil's is at sunrise, but i missed it because i was editing photos from yesterday. someone else warned me about the crowds at red square - they're not wrong. by 10 am, it's a sea of tourists with selfie sticks and flags. i managed to get a few shots without people by ducking into side streets, but you have to move fast.

if you get bored of moscow, st. petersburg is just a short train ride away - about four hours on the high-speed train. or even closer, sergeyev posad, that golden ring town, is an hour by bus. tula, the city of weapons and samovars, is a few hours south. yaroslavl on the volga is another gem. but i'm here for the urban grit, the raw edges that make moscow feel real.

the weather's been constant - 6.4°c, feels like 4.4, humidity 70%. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. my hands are numb, but i keep shooting because the light is soft, no harsh shadows, which is great for portraits. i've been trying to capture the locals' faces - the determination, the weariness - but it's tricky. people here don't always want their photo taken.

reviews on tripadvisor rave about the moscow metro, and yeah, it's impressive with its chandeliers and mosaics, but during rush hour, it's a sardine can. yelp has great suggestions for food, but i heard from a drunk guy at a bar that the best pelmeni place is in a basement with no sign - true story, i found it, and it was amazing. so gossip can be useful. i also heard that the izmaylovo market is touristy but has good souvenirs, while the danilovsky market is more local. and someone warned me to avoid the moscow zoo on weekends - too crowded.

here's a map of where i've been roaming:

so this area around kitay-gorod and kitaysky pogost is my current haunt. the map shows the center, but i'm often in the backstreets where tourists rarely go. if you're coming, use the metro - it's the best way to get around. get a troika card for easy top-ups.

for gear, i'm using a leica m6 with a 35mm f/2 lens, and i'm shooting kodak portra 400. in this humidity, i'm storing film in ziplock bags with silica gel packets - pro tip from a fellow photographer. developing in the hostel bathroom is a mess, but it works. i've shot roll 523426 today, and it's looking good.

i've included some shots from today:

these are from around the kremlin, bolshoi theatre, and some random street scenes. the first one is the skyline from a bridge, second is red square in the early morning fog, third is a vendor selling pirozhki.

i've also been reading about moscow's history - from ivan the terrible to the communist era - and it's fascinating how the city layers its past. wikipedia has a decent overview, but i prefer wandering and soaking it in. for more on the photo scene, this forum is great: https://www.flickr.com/groups/moscow/

if you need a coffee break, there's this place called "double b" near kitay-gorod - best espresso in town, according to locals. i've linked it on yelp: https://www.yelp.com/biz/double-b-moscow

links for more:
- tripadvisor moscow: https://www.tripadvisor.com/attractions-g298476-activities-moscow.html
- time out moscow: https://www.timeout.com/moscow
- wikipedia moscow: https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/moscow

as i write this, it's january 23rd, 2022, around 2:24 am local time - from the timestamp 1643037888 on my camera. yeah, i'm that sleep-deprived. the humidity is still 70%, and i can hear rain starting outside. perfect for night shots, if i can keep my eyes open.

moscow in this weather isn't for everyone, but if you love moody, atmospheric photography and don't mind the cold, it's a goldmine. just come prepared, and maybe don't edit all night before a shoot. lesson learned.

anyway, i should try to sleep before the rain gets worse. but first, let me back up these files. the humidity is killing my sd cards, i swear.

that timestamp 1643037888 - it's funny how numbers can pin a moment in time. at that exact second, i was probably stumbling home from a late-night editing session, cursing at the cold. now, i'm fueled by coffee and determination, trying to make sense of this city through my lens.

also, i almost forgot: if you're looking for unique souvenirs, skip the tourist traps and head to the depo market - it's an old train depot turned flea market, full of soviet memorabilia. i heard that from a local photographer who gave me a tip about a hidden courtyard with street art.

so there you go - my messy, sleep-deprived take on moscow. it's raw, it's real, and it's waiting for your lens. just remember to pack hand warmers and a sense of adventure.

You might also be interested in:

• https://votoris.com/post/spray-paint-spreadsheets-the-state-of-unemployment-and-economic-growth-in-tangerang
• https://votoris.com/post/jurez-2026-drumming-through-the-demographic-duststorm
• https://votoris.com/post/midnight-snaps-in-worcester-a-freelance-photographers-messy-musings
• https://votoris.com/post/vintage-finds-in-nagpur-my-halfsleepy-weekend
• https://votoris.com/post/kumasi-healthcare-where-my-espresso-meets-the-stethoscope