Medellín: Sweat, Street Art, and Seriously Good Coffee (Don't Forget the Deet)
okay, so medellín. it’s…a lot. i’m a freelance photographer, and honestly, i came here chasing light and color, and i found it, alright? found it clinging to everything like humidity. which, speaking of, i just checked and it’s basically soup outside right now, and you’ll probably be glistening within five seconds of stepping foot off the plane. feels like someone’s constantly breathing warm air on you. the weather report said 29.88 celsius, but ‘feels like’ 35.72? they weren’t kidding.
i landed with a vague plan and a camera full of hope. the city itself is built into the *hills, which is cool until you’re trying to haul your gear up a ridiculously steep street. seriously, my calves are screaming. i’m staying in El Poblado, which is…well, it’s the ‘gringo’ zone. lots of avocado toast and overpriced coffee shops. not that i’m complaining about the coffee, because oh my god, the coffee. i found this tiny place, Pergamino Café, and it’s a religious experience. https://www.pergaminocafe.com/
but you gotta get out of El Poblado. that’s where the real magic happens. Comuna 13 is…intense. the street art is incredible, obviously, but it’s also a really powerful place with a complicated history. i spent a whole day wandering around, just taking photos and trying to absorb everything. i heard from a local that the tours are pretty essential for understanding the context, and honestly, i think they’re right. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g297476-d12248431-Reviews-Comuna_13-Medellin_Antioquia_Department.html
the people here are…loud. in a good way. always up for a chat, always offering help (sometimes unsolicited, but hey, that’s part of the charm). my spanish is rusty, to say the least, but everyone’s been super patient. i’ve been relying heavily on google translate and a lot of pointing. someone told me that the best way to learn is to just jump in and make a fool of yourself, and honestly, that’s been working pretty well.
“Don’t trust anyone who tells you Medellín is ‘safe.’ It’s…managed. Be aware of your surroundings, especially at night.”
that’s what a bartender at a tiny bar in Laureles told me, after i’d asked him about pickpockets. he wasn’t wrong. i haven’t had any issues, but you definitely need to be smart. keep your valuables hidden, don’t flash your phone* around, and maybe avoid walking alone late at night. i’ve been using Uber a lot, which is pretty cheap and convenient. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Uber&find_loc=Medell%C3%ADn%2C+Antioquia%2C+Colombia
oh, and the mosquitos. bring deet. seriously. i’m covered in bites, and i’m pretty sure they’re plotting my demise. the humidity is 74%, and the air pressure is 1011, which explains why i feel like i’m constantly wading through molasses. if you get bored, Guatapé and El Peñol are just a short bus ride away. i haven’t been yet, but i’ve heard the views are incredible. https://www.colombia.co/en/guatape-and-el-penol/
i overheard someone complaining about the noise levels - apparently, there’s a lot of construction going on. and another person warned me about the traffic. it’s… chaotic, to say the least. but honestly, that’s part of the vibe. it’s a city that’s constantly moving, constantly changing. it’s messy, it’s loud, it’s sweaty, and it’s absolutely captivating. i’m already planning my return trip. just need to stock up on deet first.
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