Manila Mayhem: Humidity, Halo-Halo, and Honestly, Just Trying to Survive
okay, so manila. it’s…a lot. i landed with code 1731537 buzzing in my head (don’t ask, it’s a drum machine preset i’m obsessed with) and a temperature reading of 23.4 celsius. feels like 23.65, which, honestly, is just humidity pretending to be a different number. the air is thick enough to chew, you know? pressure’s at 1013, humidity’s a solid 71%, and the ground level feels like 989 - like the city is actively trying to swallow you whole.
i’m a touring session drummer, which means i’m used to chaos, but this is…a different breed. i’ve been bouncing between gigs and trying to find decent *coffee. let me tell you, it’s a quest. i found a place near Intramuros that claims to have single-origin beans, but i suspect it’s just instant coffee with a fancy name. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g298460-Manila.html has a ton of options, though, so maybe i just picked the wrong one.
the traffic is legendary. i swear, i spent an hour in a jeepney going maybe two blocks. someone told me the drivers have a secret society and intentionally create gridlock for fun. i don’t know if that’s true, but i wouldn’t put it past them. i overheard a conversation about a hidden speakeasy in Makati - apparently, you have to know the password and knock three times. sounds…intense. https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Speakeasies&find_loc=Makati%2C+Metro+Manila might have some clues, if you’re into that sort of thing.
i’ve been trying to eat all the street food. the halo-halo is a revelation - seriously, shaved ice, sweet beans, fruit, leche flan…it’s a whole experience. but be careful where you get it. i heard from a guy at a karaoke bar (don’t ask) that some vendors use questionable ice.
“Don’t trust anyone who offers you balut after midnight,” he slurred. “Just…don’t.”
i’m staying in a little guesthouse in Malate. the neighbors are…loud. there’s a constant chorus of karaoke, roosters, and someone practicing the trumpet. if you get restless, Tagaytay is just a short bus ride away, offering a welcome escape from the city’s intensity.
i spent yesterday wandering around Binondo Chinatown. it’s insane. the smells, the colors, the sheer density of people…it’s overwhelming in the best way. i found a tiny shop selling antique drumsticks - scored! i’m also trying to learn a few basic phrases in Tagalog, but my pronunciation is atrocious.
someone warned me about pickpockets in the Quiapo Market*, so i’m keeping my valuables close. it’s a vibrant, chaotic place, though - definitely worth a visit if you’re feeling adventurous. https://guidetothephilippines.ph/places-to-go/quiapo-market has some good tips for navigating it.
i just checked and it’s…raining right now, which is apparently pretty standard. it’s a warm rain, though, so it’s not terrible. i’m thinking of finding another karaoke bar. i need to work on my rendition of “Bohemian Rhapsody.”
honestly, manila is exhausting. but it’s also…magnetic. it pulls you in, overwhelms you, and then leaves you wanting more. i’m not sure what i expected, but it definitely wasn’t this. i’m already planning my next trip back. maybe i’ll bring earplugs.
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