Kyiv: Cold Coffee & Concrete Dreams
okay, so kyiv. it’s…a lot. i landed with this weird code buzzing in my head - 577893, then 1643229263 - don’t ask, it’s a long story involving a lost bet and a very persistent *street performer in berlin. anyway, it felt like a sign i needed to just feel things, you know? and kyiv definitely makes you feel things.
i just checked and it’s hovering around eleven degrees, with a wind that feels like it’s judging your life choices. feels like about ten, honestly. the air’s thick, like someone brewed a really strong tea and then just…let it hang there. humidity’s up around eighty-three percent, which explains why my hair is currently attempting to achieve sentience. pressure’s normal, i guess. who cares about pressure when your boots are slowly turning into ice blocks?
i’m a freelance photographer, usually chasing light in warmer climates, but something about the grey scale of this place…it’s compelling. it’s like every building has a story etched into its facade, and most of them are probably sad. i spent yesterday wandering around podil, getting lost in the maze of streets. it’s a good place to get lost, honestly.
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“don’t trust the babushkas selling sunflower seeds,” a guy at a kiosk told me, slurring his words slightly. “they’re judging your seed-cracking technique.”
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apparently, seed-cracking is serious business here. i also overheard someone complaining about the metro being perpetually overcrowded - which, yeah, it is. like, sardines have more personal space. check out some reviews on TripAdvisor if you're planning a visit, but take them with a grain of salt. everyone’s a critic.
my airbnb is…interesting. the walls are paper thin, and my neighbor seems to be practicing the accordion at all hours. it’s not bad, just…enthusiastic. if you get restless, chernihiv and zhytomyr are just a quick train ride away. i’m thinking of heading to chernihiv next, apparently it’s got some seriously ancient stuff.
coffee is…a mission. i’ve been searching for a decent flat white for two days. someone told me that the place on vulytsia khreshchatyk is good, but it’s always packed with tourists*. i found a little hole-in-the-wall place near the golden gate that does a passable brew, but it’s more of a “survival coffee” than a “enjoyable experience” coffee. i’m starting to think i need to bring my own beans. seriously considering it. you can find some local coffee shops on Yelp.
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“the best borscht is at that place near the opera house,” a woman with a very impressive hat informed me. “but don’t tell anyone i told you.”
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borscht is everywhere, obviously. i’ve had, like, five different versions. they’re all…red. i’m not sure i’m qualified to judge borscht at this point. i did try some varenyky (dumplings) that were pretty amazing, though. i found a great little place on Kyiv.info.
overall? kyiv is…challenging. it’s not a postcard-perfect city. it’s gritty, it’s cold, and it’s definitely not for the faint of heart. but it’s real. and sometimes, that’s exactly what you need. i’m going to go find another cup of questionable coffee and try to decipher the meaning of those numbers. maybe they’re a secret code to unlock the perfect borscht recipe. who knows? this place is weird. check out this local forum for more info.
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