Kochi: Rain, Rust, and Really Weird Fish
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm chai. i landed in kochi yesterday - kerala, india - and honestly, it’s… a lot. like, a beautiful, humid, slightly unsettling ‘a lot’. the air smells like spices and something vaguely metallic, which i’m starting to think is the shipyards. it’s 19.8 degrees feels like 19.64, temp min 19.8, temp max 19.8, pressure 1012, humidity 69, sea level 1012, grnd level 909. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.
i stumbled out of the taxi - a beat-up tata indica, naturally - and immediately got lost. seriously, the streets are a labyrinth. it’s like someone threw a handful of spices and a map at random and hoped for the best. i ended up at this tiny restaurant, ‘amma’s kitchen,’ which, according to someone I overheard arguing with the waiter about the price of fish curry, is ‘where the real kochi eats.’ it was… intense. the fish was… well, let’s just say it wasn’t something i’d order again. but the curry? fire. legit fire.
there’s this whole area called fort kochi, and it’s seriously cool. loads of old portuguese and dutch buildings, crumbling but still standing. i spent a couple of hours wandering around, dodging scooters and trying not to trip over stray dogs. i found this little shop selling antique maps - seriously, like, ancient maps. someone told me that the owner used to be a spice trader, and he’s got stories for days. i’m not sure i believed half of them, but it added to the atmosphere, you know?
Someone at the cafe said, ‘Don’t trust the houseboat tours. They’ll take you to the ‘best’ fish, which is usually the most expensive.’ Seriously, take that with a grain of salt, but also… maybe do your research.
i’m trying to figure out where to go next. i’ve been checking out some TripAdvisor reviews - mostly complaining about the humidity and the aggressive monkeys. Yelp is a bit quieter, mostly just pictures of food. i found this amazing little spice market on a local board - it’s called ‘the fragrant corner’ and it’s a sensory overload in the best way. i’m thinking of grabbing some cardamom and cloves and trying to recreate amma’s curry back home. wish me luck.
my accommodation is this place called ‘the rusty anchor’ - it’s… rustic. let’s go with rustic. it’s got a great view of the harbor, though, and the owner, joseph, is a total character. he’s a retired fisherman, and he spends his days sitting on the porch, whittling wood and telling stories. if you get bored, [kochi] are just a short drive away. he keeps telling me about the ‘ghost boats’ that sail out at night - apparently, they’re haunted by the souls of drowned sailors. i’m not entirely convinced, but it’s a good story.
i need to find a decent coffee. seriously, the coffee here is… an experience. it’s strong, it’s bitter, and it’s served in a chipped mug. i’m starting to think i’m going to need a serious caffeine injection. i’m heading to ‘the coffee corner’ - apparently, they roast their own beans. fingers crossed.
i’m also trying to track down some more local street art. i heard that there’s a whole area dedicated to it, but it’s a bit off the beaten path. i’ll keep you posted.
and, you know, i’m just generally overwhelmed. it’s beautiful, it’s chaotic, it’s… kochi. i’m going to go lie down now. maybe i’ll dream about fish.
check out this local board for more tips: https://www.localboards.com/kochi
and for more on the fort: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g298393-d1238838-Reviews-Fort_Kochi-Kochi_Kerala.html
and for some seriously good food: https://www.yelp.com/b/kochi-kerala
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