kigali diaries: where the air is wet and the brochettes are cheap
i just stumbled into kigali, rwanda, with a backpack full of dreams and an empty wallet. the second i stepped off the bus, the humidity hit me like a wet blanket - 93% they say, and the temperature's hovering around 15 degrees, feels exactly that. no dramatic changes here, just steady, damp coolness. pressure's 1016, whatever that means for my sinuses, but the clouds look like they're permanently pregnant with rain.
here's the exact spot i'm typing from:
i'm crashing at this hostel called 'the backpacker's nest' that i found on TripAdvisor for like 8000 rwf a night, which is what, 8 bucks? shared bathroom down the hall, but the wi-fi's surprisingly decent and the view from the rooftop? insane. check this out:
that's the city sprawled below, all green hills and red roofs.
food scene is where this city shines for us budget backpackers. i've been living on chapati and beans from this old lady near the market - 200 rwf a piece, and it's fluffy, buttery, perfect. someone told me that the real hidden gem is this tiny spot in nyamirambo where they serve the best brochettes, but you have to ask for 'the special spice' and ignore the health department warnings. i heard a local at the cafe whisper that the 'goat brochette' at the night market might actually be something else, so stick to the chicken if you're squeamish.
if you get bored of kigali's chill vibe, burundi's lake tanganyika is just a few hours by bus east - i read on this blog that the beaches are stunning, but the border crossing can be a hassle. or head west to kampala, uganda, for that chaotic, bustling city energy. i've been planning a side trip based on this reddit thread where someone raved about the bus to kampala.
the weather, man. it's a constant. i checked my app again: 15.13 degrees, feels like 15.13, humidity 93%, pressure 1016. it's like the atmosphere is just holding its breath, waiting to dump rain. and it does, randomly. but it's warm rain, sort of. hope you like that kind of thing.
cultural stuff: i did the kigali genocide memorial. it's heavy, no way around it. yelp reviews are mixed - some call it moving, others say it's touristy. but i think it's necessary. someone told me to go early to avoid crowds, and they were right.
more visuals: here's the street life in the city center:
and this is from the local market where i get my fruits:
so much color, so much noise.
i've been talking to other travelers at the hostel - this couple from canada said they loved the coffee shops in kimihurura, but the internet's crap. i'm just here for the cheap eats and the hills that make my legs burn when i walk up them. kigali's got a vibe, it's not shiny, it's real. the people are mostly cool, though i heard from a local to be careful with 'helpful' guides who overcharge.
budget breakdown: hostel 8000 rwf, food 3000 rwf a day, transport around 2000 rwf. that's like $15 a day total. not bad, eh? but the humidity means you're washing clothes every other day, and nothing dries fast. pack synthetic fabrics, trust me.
overall, if you're a student or just cheap like me, kigali's a solid stop. it's messy, it's humid, the hills will kill you, but the brochettes? legendary. just don't forget your rain jacket and a sense of humor.
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