kannur: where my vintage finds met the heatstroke
okay so i landed in kannur and immediately regretted not investing in air conditioning for my brain. the first thing i did was check the weather and it's basically a swampy 32 degrees but feels like 36, so bring a towel and some deodorant. i mean, it's not like i didn't know it was going to be hot, but humidity? humidity is a whole different beast. it clings to you like a second skin, and no matter how many showers you take, you still feel sticky. but hey, that's kerala for you. it's part of the experience, right? or maybe i'm just trying to convince myself.
here's where i was staying, or at least trying to navigate. the streets are a maze but the locals are cool. i spent most of my time hunting for vintage clothes, which is my thing. kannur has these hidden markets and alleyways where you can find real gems if you know where to look. i started at the sunday market near the fort, which is chaotic but full of treasures. i found a 70s band t-shirt in perfect condition for like 200 rupees, which is a steal. then i discovered a tiny shop tucked away in a side street that had a whole collection of sarees from the 80s. the owner was an old woman who told me stories about each piece. i ended up buying a silk saree with a floral pattern that she said was from her wedding day. i felt like i was taking a piece of history home. the next day, i went to another market and found a pair of bell-bottom jeans in my size. i was ecstatic. vintage shopping is like a treasure hunt, and kannur is a goldmine.
if you get bored, calicut and kasaragod are just a scooter ride away. i rented one and took off to calicut one day, and it was worth it for the food alone. the parotta there is legendary. but kannur has its own charm. the fort, for instance, is a must-visit. it's not the most impressive fort in india, but it has a certain rustic charm. and the beach? well, it's okay, but the real magic is in the city's old shops. i also visited the payyannur beach, which is about 20 minutes away by scooter. it's less crowded and has a more laid-back vibe. i spent the afternoon watching the fishermen bring in their catch. it was peaceful.
someone told me that the beach at payyannur is haunted by a friendly ghost who collects seashells, don't know if it's true but i didn't see any ghosts, just a lot of crabs. the beach is okay, but the real treasure is in the city's old shops. i also heard that there's a secret underground market that only opens at night, but i never found it. maybe next time. i did find a shop that sold old coins and stamps, though. the owner was a collector who had been at it for 40 years. he showed me a coin from the 19th century that was worth a fortune. too bad i didn't have the cash. he also had a collection of old postcards from kerala from the 1950s. they were amazing. i bought one of the postcards as a souvenir.
speaking of food, you have to try the kerala paratha. it's flaky and delicious. i found a small place near the fort that serves it with a side of coconut chutney. and the coffee? strong and sweet, just how i like it. i also tried the appam with stew, which is a local breakfast specialty. it's like a pancake made from rice flour, served with a stew of vegetables and coconut milk. divine. i also tried the puttu and kadala curry, which is another breakfast favorite. the puttu is steamed rice flour cylinders layered with coconut, and the kadala curry is a chickpea curry. it's a perfect combination. for lunch, i had a thali at a local restaurant. it had rice, sambar, rasam, and a variety of side dishes. it was more food than i could eat, but it was worth it. if you're looking for more info on what to do, check out TripAdvisor for Kannur or Yelp for Kannur for reviews. there's also a great local blog at Kerala Tourism that has more details. and if you're planning a bigger trip, Lonely Planet's India guide is always helpful.
overall, kannur is a bit chaotic but full of life. my vintage clothes haul was amazing, and the heat? well, i survived. barely. but hey, that's part of the adventure, right? i also met some fellow travelers at a homestay i was staying at. we spent evenings swapping stories and sharing tips. one of them was a photographer who had been traveling for a year. he showed me his best shots from kerala. another was a doctor on a short break. she told me about the medical tourism in kerala. it's funny how you meet the most interesting people when you're traveling. i think that's what i love the most about it. the people. the stories. the unexpected moments. i'll definitely be back. maybe next time i'll bring a fan.
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