Johannesburg: Dust, Dreams, and Seriously Good Coffee
okay, so johannesburg. it’s…a lot. i landed with absolutely zero expectations, honestly, just a cheap flight and a vague desire to not be anywhere near a spreadsheet for a week. i’m a freelance photographer, and usually i’m chasing light in, like, iceland or something dramatically scenic. this was different. this was real.
first thing i noticed? the light. it’s not the soft, golden hour stuff i’m used to. it’s harsh, direct, and it makes everything look…honest. and dusty. everything is dusty, actually. it gets into your camera, your hair, your soul. i’m pretty sure i’m exhaling red dirt right now. i just checked and it's hovering around eighteen degrees, with a humidity that feels like a warm hug…if warm hugs were slightly suffocating.
spent the first day wandering around maboneng. it’s…trying. a lot of gentrification happening, which is always a bit messy, right? but there’s also a real energy there, street art everywhere, little galleries popping up. i grabbed a coffee at a place called ‘father coffee’ - seriously, the best flat white i’ve had in months. Check out their Yelp reviews. someone told me the owner used to be a lawyer, which, honestly, tracks. the intensity.
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“Don’t walk alone at night in Hillbrow. Just…don’t. Take an Uber. Seriously.”
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that was a taxi driver, by the way. unsolicited advice, but probably good advice. i’ve been sticking to ubering after dark, mostly. the city feels…layered. like there’s a million stories happening at once, and you’re only catching glimpses of them. i spent an afternoon in soweto, which was incredible. the history is heavy, obviously, but there’s also this incredible resilience and spirit. i visited hector pieterson memorial - a really moving experience. TripAdvisor has some good tour options.
my accommodation is…interesting. it’s a little guesthouse in braamfontein. the walls are thin, and i can hear everything. last night, i swear i heard someone practicing the trombone at 3 am. the neighbors are pretty chill though, always waving and saying hello. if you get bored, pretoria and soweto are just a short drive away.
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“That new Italian place on Keyes? Overpriced and the pasta’s not even al dente. Stick to the bunny chow.”
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that was overheard at a bar. apparently, the bunny chow is a local specialty - a hollowed-out loaf of bread filled with curry. i haven’t tried it yet, but it’s on the list. i also heard that the market on rosebank is a good place to find vintage clothes, which is, like, my weakness. Here's a local guide to markets.
honestly, johannesburg isn’t a ‘pretty’ city. it’s rough around the edges, a little chaotic, and definitely not for the faint of heart. but it’s got a pulse. a raw, vibrant energy that i haven’t felt in a long time. and the coffee is seriously good. i’m already planning my next trip. maybe i’ll bring earplugs for the trombone player though. Check out this blog for more tips.
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