Hakodate, Japan: Freezing My Fingers Off and Finding Ramen Gold

okay, so. hakodate. i didn’t really know what to expect, honestly. i just saw a number - 2019528 - and thought, ‘let’s go there.’ it’s a bit…remote, i guess? which is exactly what i needed after that disastrous gig in Osaka. touring with a band is fun and all, but sometimes you just need to disappear into a place where nobody knows your name and your drumsticks aren’t judging you.

A large body of water with a city in the background

A large boat floating on top of a large body of water

A train traveling down train tracks next to a field

I just checked and it’s…brisk. Like, seriously brisk. The weather report says -3.3°C, but it feels like -8. I’m pretty sure my nose is permanently numb. Pressure’s high, though, which is something, right? Humidity’s low, so at least I’m not sticky. I’m bundled up like a yeti, and I’m still shivering.

Honestly, the best thing about hakodate so far has been the ramen. I stumbled into this tiny place - Ramen Shiroi Koibito - completely by accident. It’s tucked away on a side street, and the smell alone nearly knocked me over. I overheard someone - looked like a salaryman, stressed to the max - muttering about how it’s the “only thing keeping him alive.” High praise, right? I checked TripAdvisor after, and it’s got a solid 4.5 stars. Apparently, the broth is made with pork bones simmered for, like, a million hours. I didn’t ask. I just ate. It was incredible. You can find it here: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g298173-d1172883-Reviews-Ramen_Shiroi_Koibito-Hakodate_Hokkaido.html

I’ve been wandering around the *Kanemori Red Brick Warehouse District. It’s pretty touristy, sure, but the views of the bay are… something. There are a bunch of shops selling souvenirs and local crafts. I bought a tiny wooden penguin. Don’t judge me. I also spent way too long trying to figure out how to use a gachapon machine. Failed miserably.

“Apparently, if you go up Mount Hakodate at night, you can see the most amazing view of the city lights. But someone told me that it’s always foggy. Like, always foggy. So, yeah, maybe not.”

I’m staying in a little guesthouse near Hakodate Station. It’s run by this lovely old woman who doesn’t speak much English, but she makes the best green tea. She keeps trying to feed me pickled plums. I’m politely declining. I’m not sure my stomach is ready for that level of intensity.

If you get bored, Sapporo and Aomori are just a short train ride away. I might head to Sapporo tomorrow, see what’s happening there. I’m also thinking about checking out the Hakodate Morning Market. I heard that the sea urchin is ridiculously fresh. Yelp says it’s a must-do: https://www.yelp.com/biz/hakodate-morning-market-hakodate

“Drunk advice from a guy at the bar: ‘Don’t trust the taxis after midnight. They disappear. Seriously.’”

I’ve been sketching a bit, trying to capture the vibe of the place. It’s… quiet. Peaceful, even. A welcome change from the chaos of touring. I’m using a new sketchbook - a Moleskine, naturally - and experimenting with watercolors. It’s not going great, but hey, practice makes perfect, right? I’m thinking of posting some of my sketches on my Instagram later. You can find me @drummer_draws.

There’s a local forum I found where people discuss the best places to find vintage clothing. Apparently, there’s a hidden gem in the Hachiman-cho district. I’ll have to check it out tomorrow. https://hakodate-life.com/

“Something a local warned me about: ‘The seagulls here are aggressive. Like, really* aggressive. Guard your food.’”

Okay, I’m off to find another bowl of ramen. My fingers are freezing, and I need something warm to chase away the chill. Wish me luck. And maybe send some hand warmers.

Hakodate, Japan: Freezing My Fingers Off and Finding Ramen Gold

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About the author: Sophia Berg

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