Long Read

Grozny, Russia: Concrete Dreams and Unexpected Tea

@Topiclo Admin3/22/2026blog

okay, so. grozny. i didn’t plan to end up here. touring with the band, you know? one minute we’re in Vilnius, the next… well, the next is a city that feels like it’s still rebuilding its bones. i’m your friendly neighborhood touring drummer, by the way, and my brain is currently operating on approximately three hours of sleep and a steady diet of instant coffee.


The weather? i just checked and it’s… a sort of muted grey, like a watercolor painting left out in the rain. twenty point oh eight degrees celsius, feels like nineteen point five. pressure’s at a steady ten eleven, and the humidity is clinging to everything like a persistent memory. not exactly beach weather, but hey, it’s… atmospheric.

Honestly, the vibe here is… intense. There’s a palpable sense of history, of resilience. You see it in the architecture - a mix of Soviet-era blocks and these incredibly ambitious, modern structures trying to reach for the sky. It’s jarring, beautiful, and a little bit heartbreaking all at once. I spent a good hour just wandering around, staring up at the *bridges and trying to absorb it all.

I stumbled into this tiny cafe - “Chayniy Dom” - and had the most incredible tea. Seriously, the best I’ve had in ages. The woman running it, she barely spoke English, but we managed to communicate through gestures and smiles. She kept refilling my cup, and eventually, she brought out a plate of these little pastries… i don’t even know what they were, but they were amazing.

“Apparently, the old market is still a bit dodgy after dark. Someone told me a tourist got pickpocketed last week. Just keep your wits about you, yeah?”


I’m staying in this weird little guesthouse near the
river. It’s… basic. Let’s just say the shower pressure is more of a suggestion than a guarantee. But the owner is lovely, and it’s close enough to the action. If you get bored, Magas and Khasavyurt are just a short drive away - apparently, they have some decent museums.

Speaking of action, I overheard some drunk guys at a bar complaining about the traffic on
Pobeda Street. Apparently, it’s a nightmare during rush hour. They also said something about a new kebab place opening up that’s “life-changing.” I’m definitely checking that out tomorrow.

I’ve been trying to find some decent vegan food, which is proving… challenging. I did find a place that serves vegetable soup, though. It’s something. I’m starting to think I’ll be living on apples and sadness for the rest of the tour.

Here’s a quick rundown of what I’ve learned so far:

*Transportation: Taxis are relatively cheap, but make sure they use the meter.
*Language: Brush up on your Russian. English isn’t widely spoken.
*Safety: Be aware of your surroundings, especially at night.
*Food: Embrace the meat. Seriously. It’s everywhere.
*People: Incredibly friendly and welcoming, despite the language barrier.

I checked TripAdvisor and it seems like most people either love or hate Grozny. There’s not much middle ground. Yelp is… sparse, to say the least. I did find a local forum (https://cheb-grozny.ru/) where people are discussing the new park - apparently, it’s a real highlight. Also, this site (https://grozny-city.ru/) has some interesting articles about the city’s history. And if you're looking for accommodation, check out Booking.com (https://www.booking.com/city/ru/grozny.en-gb.html).

I’m heading out to explore some more of the
city center* now. Wish me luck. And maybe send coffee. Lots of coffee.

“Don’t trust anyone who offers you a ride in a Lada. Seriously. Just… don’t.”


It’s a strange, beautiful, complicated place. Grozny. I’m glad I came.


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About the author: Topiclo Admin

Writing code, prose, and occasionally poetry.

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