Eskişehir: Where the Porsuk River Whispers (and the Simit is Divine)
okay, so eskişehir. i didn’t even know this place existed a week ago, honestly. it just…appeared on my radar after a particularly disastrous gig in *istanbul (don’t ask, involving a rogue cymbal and a very unimpressed wedding party). i’m a touring session drummer, which basically means i chase gigs and questionable hotel breakfasts across turkey, and sometimes, you stumble into gold.
first impressions? it’s…beige. not in a bad way, just…a lot of sandstone. and boats. seriously, boats everywhere. they’ve got this river, the Porsuk, running through the city, and everyone seems to be either on one or staring at one. it’s kinda hypnotic. i just checked and it’s…a bit clammy, with a breeze that smells faintly of roasted chestnuts, hope you’re into that.
my little Airbnb is above a bakery, which is both a blessing and a curse. the smell of fresh simit is intoxicating, but i’m pretty sure i’ve gained five kilos just from osmosis. the landlady, Ayşe Teyze, doesn’t speak a word of english, but communicates entirely through gestures and offers of strong tea. she’s a sweetheart, though i suspect she thinks i’m slightly unhinged because i keep talking to my drumsticks.
someone told me that the Odunpazarı houses are haunted by the ghosts of Ottoman merchants. Apparently, they’re really particular about people taking photos. I didn’t see any ghosts, but my camera battery did drain suspiciously quickly.
spent yesterday wandering around Odunpazarı, the old town. it’s all these beautifully preserved wooden houses, painted in crazy colors. it’s like stepping back in time, except with more tourists and selfie sticks. i overheard someone complaining on Yelp about the crowds, but honestly, it’s worth it. the craft shops are amazing - i picked up a ridiculously ornate tea glass for my mum.
*Gear I’m hauling: Noise-canceling headphones (essential for surviving Turkish bus journeys), a portable charger (because, ghosts), and my trusty drum key (obviously).
*Pro-tip: Learn a few basic Turkish phrases. “Teşekkür ederim” (thank you) will get you everywhere.
*Food alert: The döner kebab here is next level. Seriously. Find a local place, not a tourist trap.
I heard that the local university students are obsessed with this tiny cafe near the museum, apparently they have the best Turkish coffee in town. I haven't been yet, but I'm planning a caffeine-fueled reconnaissance mission tomorrow. If you get bored, sakarya and kütahya are just a short dolmuş ride away.
a drunk guy at the bar last night insisted that Eskişehir is the “secret capital of Turkish cool.” He also tried to teach me a traditional folk dance, which was…humiliating.
the weather data is kinda weird, right? 9.32 degrees Celsius, feels like 7, pressure at 1014…it’s like the atmosphere is having an existential crisis. it matches my mood, honestly. i’m starting to think i might just stay here a while. it’s…calm. and the simit is really* good. check out TripAdvisor for more info. Also, this blog has some good insights: Turkey Travel Center. And for local events, this forum is pretty active: InterNations Eskişehir.
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