Dust & Echoes in Oaxaca: Seriously, What *Is* This Place?
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee right now. 3564178… seriously, what even is that number? it just popped into my head. and 1192302618? don’t ask. it’s… a thing. i’m just going with it. i landed in Oaxaca yesterday, and honestly, it’s a sensory overload in the best possible way. the air smells like cinnamon and something vaguely floral, like someone’s grandma’s closet, you know?
It’s 28.56 degrees Celsius, feels like 29.8, temp min 28.56, temp max 28.56, pressure 1016, humidity 56, sea level 1016, grnd level 1011. yeah, that’s… precise. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.
I’m staying in this little courtyard place - it’s basically a giant, crumbling adobe thing - near the zocalo. the zocalo itself is a chaotic mess of street vendors, mariachi bands, and people just… existing. it’s beautiful, but also slightly terrifying. i almost got run over by a donkey cart this morning. almost.
I spent the afternoon wandering through the markets. the colors! the smells! i bought a bunch of weird spices - chili powder that looks like volcanic ash, dried hibiscus flowers, something called ‘mole negro’ that smells like a funeral. someone told me that the best mole is at Los Danzantes, but i’m still trying to figure out if that’s true or just drunk advice. i’m leaning towards drunk advice.
Speaking of locals, if you get bored, Guadalajara is just a short drive away. there’s this guy, Ricardo, who runs a tiny mezcal distillery just outside town. he’s a total character - wears a sombrero and a permanent frown, but he makes the most incredible mezcal you’ve ever tasted. i heard that he’s a bit of a recluse, though. don’t bother him after dark.
I stumbled across this incredible mural in the barrio de Jalatlaco. it’s a huge, sprawling thing depicting the history of Oaxaca - from the indigenous people to the Spanish conquest to modern-day struggles. it’s seriously powerful stuff. i took about a million photos. my camera roll is screaming.
Here’s the gear list, because apparently, i need to document everything.
Camera: Canon 5D Mark IV (duh) - always a good bet.
*Lenses: 35mm, 50mm, 85mm - the holy trinity.
*Notebook & Pen: For capturing fleeting thoughts and bad coffee stains.
*Comfortable Shoes: Seriously, you’ll be walking a lot.
*Sunscreen: Oaxaca is bright. Like, blindingly bright.
*Mosquito Repellent:* Trust me on this one.
I’m planning on checking out Monte Alban tomorrow - a massive ancient Zapotec city perched on a mountaintop. i’ve read it’s incredible, but also sweltering. i’m bringing extra water. lots of water.
I found this little cafe called ‘El Jardín’ - it’s tucked away down a side street and has the best coffee in town. they use locally roasted beans and make these amazing chocolate drinks. it’s my new happy place. check it out: https://www.yelp.com/biz/el-jardin-oaxaca
And for a bit of history, you should definitely check out the Museo de las Culturas de Oaxaca: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g150825-d1567338-Reviews-Museo_de_las_Culturas_de_Oaxaca-Oaxaca_State.html
Oh, and if you’re looking for some seriously good mezcal, you HAVE to try Mezcalería In Situ: https://www.mezcalinisitu.com/
Someone overheard me talking about Oaxaca and said, “It’s like stepping back in time, but with more tacos.” I’m not entirely sure I agree, but it’s a pretty good description.
Seriously, this place is wild. i’m going to go find some more coffee and try to decipher the meaning of 3564178. wish me luck.
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