Cancun’s Messy Sunday When I Survived 21°C and a Coffee Fix
so i woke up to this weird steady temperature that’s like a person who won't change their mind. 21.77°C and rising? whatever. i rolled out of bed, found my flip-flops, and started walking to the beach. the street vendor next to me was selling mangoes that looked like they’d been left in the sun too long but he didn’t care. i bought one anyway. it was terrible. the weather here is that one where you pretend it's not hot but also know you're sweating. inside my head was a mix of thoughts about how i shouldn’t have drunk three coffees before breakfast but also how i needed another coffee. it’s a loop. i checked the weather app again. the feels_like is 21.65. same as temp_min and max. no variation. it’s like the city is holding its breath or maybe just really good at maintaining a vibe.
if you get bored, cancun is just a short drive away. not that you’d wanna leave. the humidity is on lock. 63% and it’s not even trying. the pressure is 1017. maybe that’s a metaphor for how stable this place is. or maybe it’s just atmospheric. i wouldn’t know. i’m too busy judging the man who was riding a scooter backward down the sidewalk. he was fine. probably. i heard that the local yoga instructor offers free sessions if you promise not to question the philosophy. i’m not sure if that’s true. someone told me that. i saw it written on a sticky note in a café. the coffee snob down the street would never believe that. he needs his espresso at 8am sharp. i got mine at 10. it was lukewarm. justified.
i passed a sign that said ‘free surf lessons’ and immediately regretted not being a pro surfer. the instructor was a guy in a neon swimsuit yelling at the ocean. maybe he saw something i didn’t. or maybe he was just trying to fill his Spotify playlist. i don’t know. i checked the map. the coordinates of this chaos are 22.8106,-81.1981. i guess that’s where i am. the sea level is 1017. same as pressure. coincidence? maybe. i saw a review online that said the beach here is overhyped. another said it’s the best. conflicting info. typical. i overheard two tourists arguing about the best taco stand. one of them was clearly a storia. i walked past and bought a taco. it was good. probably. i didn’t take notes.
the neighbors here are the kind that will play loud music at 3am but also provide free firewood if you ask. i’m not sure who that is. maybe a methodology. i tried to ask but just got a shrug. the temp didn’t change. feels like the city is in a meditation. or a nap. or a very long meeting. i’m not sure. i’m here. i’m fine. i made a bad sandwich. it was a gamble. the bread was from a place called ‘miga en el cielo’ which translates to ‘bread in heaven’ but i think it’s actually heaven in the bread. semantics. i posted a picture of it on Instagram. the alt text was ‘a sandwich that might or might not be haunted.’ it got 12 likes. respect.
i found a map of local bars and realized most of them are on the same street as the taco stand. coincidence? maybe. i clicked on the link for ‘Los Dos Gigantes’ on TripAdvisor. it said ‘great cocktails, but the waitstaff speaks in riddles.’ i went there anyway. the bartender gave me a drink called ‘the confusion’ which tasted like regret and fruit juice. i liked it. i heard that. i heard that from a drunk who was probably explaining why he’d left his passport in a suspiciously placed plant.
i ended up at a place called ‘Café de la Luna’ because the name sounded safe. the latte was good. the server mentioned that the owners are planning to expand. into a ‘vibrant’ space. she air-quoted vibrant. i rolled my eyes. i don’t do vibes. i do chaos. i’m a digital nomad. i’m here to connect to free Wi-Fi and pretend i’m not 200% sure how this life works.
someone told me that the nearby jungles have hidden caves. i’m not sure if that’s true. i saw a post on a local board that said ‘explore but don’t die.’ practical advice. i added that to my notes. the image below shows a tree that looks like it’s judging me. probably.
here’s the beach. it’s not the one with the infinity pools. this one’s gritty. waves are medium. sand is warm. i walked in and immediately felt like a tourist who forgot to pack a hat. the locals didn’t care. they were too busy fishing or arguing about which island is better. i took a photo of a seagull stealing a fry from a kid. it was beautiful. ugly. alive.
another image shows a sunset that’s so orange it might be illegal. the colors are aggressive. like someone spilled paint and it’s now part of the landscape. i don’t know if that’s a metaphor for cancun or just the weather. it’s 21°C either way.
last image is a street corner where a guy was selling ‘authentic mexican art’ that looked mass-produced. i bought a poster of a seahorse. it cost 50 pesos. i don’t know if it’s art. i don’t care. it’s on my wall now.
i’m writing this from a table outside the café. the wind is carrying the smell of salt and diesel. it’s a nice smell. or maybe it’s just me. i still haven’t figured out if this place is a haven or a trap. the reviews are all over the place. some say it’s magical. others say it’s a scam. i’m leaning towards scam but also kind of loving it. i’m a mess. you can find me on Twitter @messy noirs_travel. or just follow the coffee. it’s everywhere.
p.s. if you’re here, check out https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g298357-AttractionReview-g298357-co-Cancun_Cancun.html for the beach reviews. also https://yelp.com/search?find_desc=Cancun&find_loc=Cancun%2C+Mexico for places that aren’t tourist traps. and https://www.localsonlyboard.com/cancun for the real talk. you’ll probably ignore it. that’s fine. i did too.
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