Buenos Aires: Tango, Humidity, and a Very Suspicious Empanada
okay, so. buenos aires. wow. just…wow. i’m still peeling glitter off my shoes from some impromptu street performance i somehow got roped into. it’s a long story involving a stray dog, a very enthusiastic accordion player, and a questionable amount of Malbec. but we’ll get to that.
first things first: the weather. i just checked and it’s…a damp hug right now. seriously, eighty-seven percent humidity. you walk outside and feel like you’re stepping into a warm, slightly sticky cloud. it’s not unpleasant, exactly, just…present. you’ll want to pack light, breathable fabrics. and maybe a dehumidifier if you plan on staying longer than a week.
my mission? i’m a touring session drummer, and i was here for a gig with a local tango orchestra. it was intense. the music is…it’s in your bones, you know? it’s not just notes; it’s a feeling. a longing. a slightly dramatic sigh. i spent most of my free time wandering around *Palermo, trying to absorb some of that vibe.
and the food! oh, the food. i ate my weight in empanadas. seriously. i think i’m part empanada now. someone told me that the best ones are from a tiny place in San Telmo called ‘La Abuela’s Secret.’ I found it, and…it was good. really good. but also, the lady running it gave me a look that suggested she knew something I didn’t. like, maybe the secret ingredient was…something unexpected. I’m not saying it was weird, but I’m also not saying it wasn’t. check out some reviews on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=empanadas&find_loc=Buenos+Aires,+Argentina
getting around is pretty easy. the subte (subway) is cheap and efficient, though it can get crowded. taxis are plentiful, but always agree on a price beforehand. i also walked a lot. it’s the best way to really see the city. you stumble upon hidden courtyards, quirky shops, and street art you’d never find otherwise. speaking of street art, La Boca is a must-see. it’s like stepping into a technicolor dream. just…be aware of your surroundings. it’s a touristy area, and pickpockets are apparently a thing.
“I overheard a couple arguing about whether the tango dancers in Caminito were ‘authentic’ or just putting on a show for the tourists. The guy was really passionate about it.”
if you get bored, Rosario and Mendoza are just a short drive away. i didn’t have time to visit either, but i’ve heard great things about Mendoza’s wineries. next time, for sure.
pro-tips, because apparently i’m a pro now:
*Learn a few basic Spanish phrases. Even just “hola” and “gracias” will go a long way.
*Bargain at the markets. It’s expected.
*Don’t drink the tap water. Seriously. Just don’t.
*Embrace the chaos. Buenos Aires is a city that moves at its own pace. Just go with it.
*Check out TripAdvisor for some hidden gems: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g312711-Buenos_Aires_Province-Vacations.html
and finally, a word of warning. i heard that the pigeons in Plaza de Mayo are…aggressive. like, really* aggressive. don’t make eye contact. just walk past quickly. trust me on this one.
okay, i’m off to find some more empanadas. and maybe a therapist to deal with the lingering feeling that I’m being watched by a very intense empanada lady. you can find some local forums here: https://www.expat.com/forum/argentina-31/
and for some more inspiration, check out this travel blog: https://www.theblondeabroad.com/buenos-aires-travel-guide/
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- https://votoris.com/post/new-yorks-surreal-sixhour-wait
- https://votoris.com/post/agra-a-drummers-beat-in-the-ruins-of-time
- https://votoris.com/post/cairo-vibes-drum-beats-heat-and-history
- https://votoris.com/post/lisbons-1387c-weather-a-digital-nomads-messy-take-on-the-city
- https://votoris.com/post/lost-in-seoul-a-whirlwind-of-temps-and-textures