Banjarmasin, Indonesia: Floating Markets & Firey Sunsets
banjarmasin-if you've never heard of it, you're not alone. tucked away in south kalimantan, this indonesian city sits along the barito river, famous for its floating markets and stilt houses. i landed here after a chaotic 12-hour bus ride from surabaya, and let me tell you-my back still hates me. the weather? brutal. just checked and it's 33.18°c there right now, feels like 39.26°c, so yeah, pack your lightest clothes and a serious tolerance for sweat. humidity's at 58%, so it's not the kind of heat that knocks you out immediately, but it sneaks up on you like a bad hangover.
when i first stepped off the bus, i was hit with the smell of grilled fish and something sweet-turns out it was local kue apam, a sticky rice cake i demolished in about 30 seconds. the locals here are ridiculously friendly, but they also have zero chill when it comes to negotiating boat rides. i heard from a fellow traveler that you should never accept the first price at the floating market unless you enjoy getting ripped off.
one of the first things i did was hire a small klotok boat to cruise the canals at sunrise. the floating market was already buzzing-women paddling by with baskets of rambutan, bananas, and fresh catfish. i bought a bag of mangosteens for about 15,000 rupiah, and the vendor laughed when i tried to peel one with my teeth.
if you get bored, banjarmasin's neighbors like martapura (famous for its diamond mines) and the beaches of tanjung laut are just a short drive away. but honestly, you might not want to leave. the sunsets here are unreal-the sky turns this deep orange, and the river reflects it like molten metal. i tried to take a photo, but my phone overheated and shut down. classic.
food-wise, you can't skip soto banjar, a fragrant chicken soup with spices that'll make your nose tingle in the best way. i found a tiny warung near the grand mosque where the owner’s grandma still makes the broth by hand every morning. someone told me that if you ask nicely, she'll even show you her secret spice mix-but only if you bring her a pack of clove cigarettes as a thank-you.
for accommodation, i stayed at a homestay near the river for about $8 a night. it was basic-cold shower, fan that sounded like a jet engine-but the family was amazing and kept offering me endless cups of kopi tubruk (black coffee with the grounds still in it). if you're into boutique vibes, check out *the zinc* on tripadvisor; it's pricier but has AC and a rooftop bar where you can watch the boats drift by at night.
i also heard a wild rumor from a barista at a local coffee shop: apparently, there's a hidden alley in the old town where street artists paint murals overnight, and by morning, the whole lane becomes an open-air gallery. i tried to find it but ended up lost and buying fried bananas from a kid who laughed at my terrible indonesian.
so, is banjarmasin worth it? absolutely. it's not polished, it's not easy, but that's exactly why it sticks with you. just be ready to sweat, smile a lot, and maybe lose a shoe to the river at some point. totally worth it.
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