Baku, Azerbaijan: Honestly, It's a Whole Thing
okay, so baku. it’s…a lot. i’m a freelance photographer, and i usually chase light, but this place chases you. i landed with absolutely zero expectations, just a crumpled boarding pass and a vague memory of someone mentioning *caviar.
first off, the numbers. 824003 and 1031114052…they feel like coordinates to a secret level in a video game, right? maybe that’s baku. it feels like a glitch in the matrix sometimes. the weather? i just checked and it’s…damply shimmering, with a side of “are those clouds or smog?” right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the official stats said 8.78 degrees celsius, feels like 5.64, pressure at 1009, humidity at 81%. honestly, it just feels like a thick blanket is being slowly lowered over everything.
i spent the first day wandering around Icheri Sheher (the old city). it’s gorgeous, obviously, all winding alleys and ancient stone. but it’s also…intense. everyone’s trying to sell you something. rugs, spices, miniature oil derricks (seriously). i overheard someone muttering to their friend, "don't buy the pomegranate juice from that guy, he waters it down with tap water." which, you know, helpful.
"Honestly, the Flame Towers are just…showing off. Like, we get it, you have gas. You're rich. Tone it down."
the flame towers are…a statement. a very bright, very expensive statement. someone told me they’re visible from space, which feels plausible. i tried to get a good shot of them at night, but the light pollution is insane. i ended up with a blurry mess that looks like a digital aurora borealis.
i’ve been mostly sticking to street food. the qutab (a savory pancake) is amazing. i found a little place near the Nizami Street fountain that does a killer version. i also tried something called dushbara, tiny dumplings in broth. it was…an experience. i’m not sure i’d order it again, but i’m glad i tried it. you can find some reviews on Yelp.
my neighbors here are…loud. not in a bad way, just…enthusiastic. there’s a constant chorus of car horns and animated conversations. if you get bored, Shirvan and Gobustan are just a short bus ride away, apparently. i’m thinking of heading to Gobustan to see the mud volcanoes. i heard they smell like sulfur, which, honestly, sounds perfect for my aesthetic right now.
i spent an afternoon getting lost in the Baku Boulevard. it’s a long, sprawling park along the Caspian Sea. it’s surprisingly peaceful, despite the constant flow of people. i saw a guy playing a tar* (a traditional Azerbaijani stringed instrument) and it was genuinely beautiful. you can find more info about the boulevard on TripAdvisor.
i also stumbled upon a tiny vintage shop tucked away in a side street. it was crammed full of treasures - old silk scarves, embroidered jackets, and a truly terrifying collection of porcelain dolls. i bought a faded floral dress for about five manat (which is, like, three dollars). score! check out this local forum for more tips on finding hidden gems.
"The tea houses are where it's at. Seriously. Forget the fancy restaurants, go sit with the locals and drink endless glasses of chai."
someone warned me about the taxi drivers. apparently, they have a habit of “forgetting” to turn on the meter. i’ve been using Bolt (the ride-hailing app) and it’s been pretty reliable so far.
honestly, baku is exhausting. it’s overwhelming. it’s chaotic. but it’s also…captivating. it’s a city that gets under your skin and refuses to let go. i’m not sure i understand it, but i’m definitely glad i came. i'm already planning my next adventure, maybe Georgia.
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