Accra's Heat and Hustle: A Drummer's Dizzying Dispatch
okay, so. accra. wow. just…wow. i’m still peeling off layers of humidity, i swear. landed a gig here - touring with a Ghanaian highlife band, which is insane, right? - and it’s been a sensory overload in the best possible way. i’m a touring session drummer, you see, so i’m used to chaos, but this is a different breed.
I just checked and it’s…a shimmering haze out there right now. Feels like 27.86 degrees, which is basically my internal organs melting. Pressure’s steady, though, at 1015. Humidity? Don’t even ask. It’s clinging to you like a second skin.
My room’s in Labone, which is…vibrant, i guess? Though i’m trying to avoid using that word. It feels…corporate. Anyway, it’s pretty chill. The neighbors are mostly families, lots of kids kicking around footballs. If you get bored, Kumasi and Cape Coast are just a short drive away - heard they’re amazing for history buffs.
Speaking of which, someone told me that the National Museum is seriously underrated. Apparently, you can spend hours wandering around and barely scratch the surface. I’m definitely hitting that up when i get a chance.
Food. Oh god, the food. I’ve been living on jollof rice and banku. Banku is…an experience. Let’s just say it’s an acquired taste. I found this amazing little spot near the University of Ghana - check it out on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/biz/university-of-ghana-legon-accra. Seriously, the best jollof i’ve had so far.
“Don’t drink the tap water. Seriously. Just don’t.” - a very concerned taxi driver.
Right? Like, thanks for the warning. I’m sticking to bottled water and praying for the best.
I’ve been trying to scope out some local music venues. Apparently, there’s a really cool jazz club in Osu. I heard that it’s a bit pricey, but worth it for the atmosphere. TripAdvisor says it’s got a great vibe: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g298317-Osu_Accra_Region.html. Gotta check it out.
My gear list is…minimal. Gotta keep it light when you’re touring, you know?
Drumsticks: Vic Firth 5A - can’t go wrong.
*Earplugs: Essential. Seriously, save your hearing.
*Portable Charger: Because outlets are…temperamental.
*Mosquito Repellent: Accra’s got a serious mosquito problem.
*Phrasebook:* Trying to learn a little Twi. It’s humbling, to say the least.
“Watch out for the tro tros. They’re…an adventure.” - a very weary-looking tourist.
Yeah, the tro tros are something else. Public transport here is…intense. But it’s also a great way to see the city. Just hold on tight.
I’m also trying to find some decent coffee. Apparently, there’s a place called “The Coffee Shop” that’s supposed to be pretty good. I’ll update you if it lives up to the hype. I’m a bit of a coffee snob, so that’s a high bar. Check out this local forum for more recommendations: https://www.ghanatalkative.com/forum/food-drink/coffee-shops-accra-2023/.
“Don’t trust anyone who offers you ‘authentic’ souvenirs on the street. It’s probably a knock-off.” - a local woman selling fabric.
Good to know. I’m sticking to supporting local artisans in the markets. I found this amazing kente cloth - it’s going to look incredible framed.
Anyway, gotta run. Rehearsal in an hour. Wish me luck! And if you’re planning a trip to Accra, be prepared for the heat, the hustle, and the sheer vibrancy of it all. It’s…something else.
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