Long Read

A Curious Kitchen Chronicle in Udaipur’s Labyrinth

@Owen Steele3/4/2026blog

i just checked and it's a balmy 22°C here-liquid gold in the air, thick enough to fry pakoras in. my apartment smells like cardamom melting into exhaust fumes, thanks to the chaos radiating from a brass stove two floors down. today, i accidentally became a sous-chef to a lady who insists butter is a crime against lactose. she won't stop shaking her head at my saffron risotto. honestly, it’s the kinda observation i didn’t need.

walked to the market through a haze of 23% humidity and brokers yelling in Hindi that only sound like minor earthquakes. my left shoe is now a shrine to mango dust. found a stall selling jalebis the size of hockey pucks. the vendor, who speaks fluent quirks, traded me a souvenir of a particularly sticky offering for a photo. his wife muttered something about "city kids" every time my phone camera emerged. whatever that meant.

someone told me cafes here serve their chai in recycled teapots. i heard that from a guy who’d previously mistaken the heatwave for a yoga challenge. tried it anyway. the steam hit like a slap from a sarcastic aunt. *Dal Baati Churma* is the ld of comfort food here-pulverized grains mixed with jaggery and something vaguely spicy. the recipe hasn’t been nailed down, which is probably why every eatery swears their version’s shinier.

if you get bored, Amber Fort’s just a stone’s throw lurking. but the real magic happens in the alleys where old men shuffle like misplaced puzzle pieces. one of them, must’ve been worked 200% into the stone, started singing a Lata Mangeshkar duet with his shadow. i’m 80% sure he only did it to confirm the air stayed at 21°F of feels-like.

the yoga instructor who lives in the building next to mine claims the monsoon’ll start next week. we’re all waiting for the humidity to officially retire at 10%. until then, i’ll keep cooking with my waterlogged spices and arguing with the mop about whether they’re the same cloth. this city’s a mess. love it.


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About the author: Owen Steele

Believer in lifelong learning (and unlearning).

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