Veliko Tarnovo: Cobblestones, Cats, and a Seriously Chill Vibe
okay, so veliko tarnovo. it’s…a lot. i stumbled into this place kinda by accident, honestly. was supposed to be heading further east, but my train got delayed (story of my life, right?) and i just…stayed. and i’m kinda glad i did.
first off, the *hills. this place is built on a bunch of them. like, seriously. prepare for a leg workout. i’m a touring session drummer, so i’m used to hauling gear, but even i was winded. the old town, especially, is all winding cobblestone streets and ancient walls. it’s beautiful, but wear sensible shoes. trust me. i saw a girl try to navigate those streets in heels…it wasn’t pretty.
i just checked and it’s…a bit of a damp chill hanging around right now, hovering around ten degrees, but it feels colder, like maybe nine. the air is thick with the smell of woodsmoke and something vaguely floral. the pressure’s pretty high, which probably explains the headache i’ve been nursing all day. humidity’s not terrible, though, around fifty percent.
there’s this little cafe i found, called ‘Malkata Krepost’ (i think that’s how it’s spelled - my bulgarian is…nonexistent). they make this amazing banitsa, which is like a flaky pastry filled with cheese. seriously, go there. it’s life-changing. i overheard someone saying it’s the best in town, but honestly, everyone here seems to have a strong opinion about banitsa.
“Don’t bother with the tourist traps near Tsarevets Fortress,” a guy with a surprisingly good handlebar mustache told me. “Real food is down by the market.”
and he wasn’t wrong. the market is a chaotic, wonderful mess of fresh produce, spices, and questionable meats. i bought some local honey - it’s dark and floral and tastes like sunshine. i’m pretty sure i overpaid, but i didn’t care. it’s delicious.
my neighbors are…interesting. mostly older folks who seem to spend their days sitting on their balconies, watching the world go by. if you get bored, Ruse and Velichka* are just a short bus ride away. i haven’t ventured that far yet, but i’m thinking about it. i’ve been reading up on the history of the area - it’s fascinating. this place has been around for centuries, and you can feel it in the stones. check out this TripAdvisor link for more info: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g295593-Veliko_Tarnovo_Region-Vacations.html.
someone told me that the hostel i’m staying at is haunted. apparently, a former owner died in the building and now his ghost wanders the halls, rearranging the furniture. i haven’t seen anything yet, but i’m keeping an eye out. you can find some reviews on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Hostels&find_loc=Veliko+Tarnovo%2C+Bulgaria.
“The best view of the city is from the balcony of the ‘Restaurant Panorama’,” a drunk guy slurred at me last night. “But don’t order the fish. It tastes like sadness.”
i also heard that the local craft beer scene is pretty good. i haven’t had a chance to explore it yet, but i’m planning to. i found this local forum with some recommendations: https://www.expats.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=345678.
honestly, veliko tarnovo is just…a vibe. it’s not perfect. it’s a little rough around the edges. but it’s real. and it’s beautiful. and it’s definitely worth a visit. just remember to bring your walking shoes and your sense of adventure. and maybe a ghost detector, just in case. you can also check out this website for more information: https://bulgariatravel.org/veliko-tarnovo/
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/commute-times-in-bamako-how-long-will-you-spend-in-traffic-and-maybe-your-sanity
- https://votoris.com/post/best-suburbs-in-amsterdam-for-families-and-young-professionals-a-messy-guide
- https://votoris.com/post/guerrilla-graffiti-good-vibes-my-messy-streetart-hunt-in-guatemala-city
- https://votoris.com/post/finding-an-englishspeaking-doctor-in-soweto-my-hunt-and-youll-need-it
- https://votoris.com/post/livingstones-cold-colorful-mess-13c-in-zambia