stumbling into st. andrews: a foggy, salty mess of a day
okay, so i rolled into st. andrews thinking it'd be all prim and proper, you know, like those polished new england towns with white picket fences and a perfectly curated farmers' market. but nah-this place is a little rough around the edges, in the best way. i mean, it's like the town itself woke up on the wrong side of the bed and decided to keep it that way, which i kind of love.
first thing i noticed? the air. it's that weird mix of ocean brine and something vaguely piney, like the forest is trying to mask the fact that the sea's been gossiping all night. and the weather? apparently it's hovering around 6.4°c right now with a humidity that makes your hair do that thing where it just gives up and frizzes out in solidarity. i just checked and it's basically sweater-and-scarf territory, so if you're into that whole "i look like i just stepped off a yacht but actually i'm freezing" vibe, you're golden.
now, about the neighbors-if you get bored, saint john and fredericton are just a short drive away. saint john's got that gritty port-town energy, all rusty boats and fish-and-chip joints that probably haven't changed their grease since the '80s. fredericton, on the other hand, is more like the polite cousin who wears loafers and asks about your thesis. both worth a detour if you're into variety.
i heard from a barista at *honeybeans coffee, tea & treats (yes, that's the real name) that the best way to experience st. andrews is to get lost on the back roads. "people think it's all about the golf course," she said, rolling her eyes, "but honestly, the real magic is in the fog rolling over the bay at 6 a.m. when no one's around." i took her word for it and ended up at the blockhouse museum, which is basically a wooden fort that looks like it's been through a few too many storms but still stands there like, "i got this."
the food scene here is...interesting. i mean, i tried the clam shack on water street, and let's just say the clams were salty enough to make you question your life choices, but in a good way? someone told me that the alchemist in the kitchen does this lavender-infused hot chocolate that tastes like a hug from a very fancy grandmother. i haven't tried it yet, but it's on the list.
and the people? they're not exactly warm and fuzzy, but they're not rude either. it's more like they've seen it all and are just waiting for you to catch up. i overheard a couple of locals at the ross memorial museum* debating whether the town's haunted. "nah," one said, "it's just old." classic.
anyway, if you're into places that don't try too hard and still manage to charm the socks off you, st. andrews is your jam. just bring a raincoat and maybe a sense of humor.
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