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San Juan: Humidity, Rum, and Questionable Street Art (My Kind of Chaos)

@Topiclo Admin3/29/2026blog

okay, so. san juan. i’m still peeling sunscreen off my elbows, and i think i’m permanently damp. i just checked and it’s…a thick, clinging sort of warmth right now, like a damp towel wrapped around you. hope you like that kind of thing. the numbers say 19.25 degrees, feels like 19.53, but honestly, it feels like a sauna with a slight ocean breeze. pressure’s at 1018, humidity’s a ridiculous 88%, and i’m pretty sure my hair has achieved sentience.


I’m a touring session drummer, which means I’m used to weird places and even weirder schedules. But san juan…san juan is something else. I was here for a gig - a corporate thing, don’t ask - and decided to extend my stay. Figured, why not? I needed a break from the usual hotel-airport-hotel routine.


First thing you need to know: old san juan is steep. Like, seriously, bring good shoes. I wore sandals the first day. Rookie mistake. My calves are still screaming. I spent a lot of time just wandering, getting lost in the maze of cobblestone streets. It’s beautiful, obviously, all the colorful buildings and wrought-iron balconies. But it’s also…lived in. Not in a polished, tourist-friendly way. More like, laundry hanging out windows, cats sleeping in doorways, the occasional rooster strutting down the street. Which, honestly, I loved.

I stumbled across this tiny little bar, El Local 22, tucked away on a side street. The bartender, a guy named Rafael, was a font of information (and rum). He gave me the lowdown on everything - the best places to eat, the spots to avoid, the local gossip.

“Don’t go near Calle del Cristo after dark,” he told me, wiping down the bar with a rag. “Things get…interesting. Let’s just say the police don’t patrol it as much as they should.”


I took that as a challenge, naturally. (Don’t do that. Seriously. Listen to Rafael.)

Food-wise, it was amazing. I had mofongo everywhere. Seriously, everywhere. I think I ate my weight in mofongo. I found this place, Deaverdura, that had the best - fresh, flavorful, not too greasy. Check it out if you're around. TripAdvisor Link.


I also spent a ridiculous amount of time just people-watching. There’s a park, Plaza de Armas, that’s a great spot for it. I overheard this conversation between two older women…

“Did you hear about the guy who tried to sell fake paintings near Castillo San Felipe del Morro? The police hauled him away. Said he was giving san juan a bad name.” One woman chuckled. “Honestly, some people have no shame.”


I’m trying to find some decent vintage shops, but so far, it’s been a bit hit-or-miss. I did find this one place, Vintage Puerto Rico, that had a few interesting pieces, but the prices were a little steep. Yelp Link. I’m thinking of hitting up some flea markets next.

If you get bored, Ponce and Mayagüez are just a short drive away. I didn’t make it out there this time, but I’ve heard they’re worth a visit.


*Pro-Tip #1: Learn a few basic Spanish phrases. It goes a long way. Pro-Tip #2: Embrace the humidity. Fighting it is a losing battle. Pro-Tip #3: Don’t be afraid to get lost. That’s where the real magic happens. Pro-Tip #4: Try the piraguas (shaved ice). Seriously, the best. Pro-Tip #5:* Check out the local music scene. There's a lot of great talent here. Local Music Board Link.

Someone told me that the street art around Santurce is incredible, but I didn’t have time to explore it properly. I saw a few murals, but I need to go back and dedicate a whole day to it. I’m also looking for a good coffee shop. I’m a bit of a coffee snob, so it needs to be good. Coffee Shop Review Site.

Overall, san juan is…chaotic. But in a good way. It’s vibrant, it’s real, and it’s definitely not boring. I’d go back in a heartbeat. Just maybe with a bigger suitcase for all the rum I’m bringing home.

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About the author: Topiclo Admin

Writing code, prose, and occasionally poetry.

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