Morelia, Mexico: Dust, Drums, and a Seriously Sticky Heat
okay, so morelia. it’s…a lot. i landed with a thump, feeling like i’d been tumble-dried, and immediately walked into air you could wear. i just checked and it’s hovering around thirty-six degrees, but feels like someone’s gently roasting you with a hairdryer. the humidity’s low, thankfully, around twenty-two percent, which means the sweat just kinda…hangs there. it’s a whole thing. the pressure’s normal, apparently, which is good news for my ears, and the ground level feels a bit lower than sea level, which honestly, i didn’t even notice until i looked it up.
i’m here on tour with this indie band - we’re the warm-up act for a group that sounds suspiciously like a cat fight in a synthesizer factory. it’s…fine. the gigs are small, the *cantinas are loud, and the tequila flows like water. i’m the session drummer, which means i spend most of my time lugging gear and trying to find decent coffee. which, let me tell you, is a quest.
the city itself is…well, it’s pink. everything is made of this volcanic rock that’s this gorgeous, dusty rose color. it’s kinda overwhelming, honestly. i spent yesterday wandering around the historic center, getting hopelessly lost in the maze of streets. i stumbled upon this amazing little shop selling hand-painted masks - seriously cool stuff. you can find some info about the area on TripAdvisor.
someone told me that the best mole in town is at a place called ‘La Casa de la Tía’, but you have to know the owner’s cousin’s dog’s name to get a table. apparently, it’s a whole ordeal. i also overheard a couple of guys in a bar arguing about which mezcalería has the real stuff - one swore by ‘El Mezcalito’, the other said it was all tourist traps. i’m leaning towards trusting the guy with the handlebar mustache.
“Don’t drink the water. Seriously. Just…don’t.”
that’s what the sound guy told me. he’s been touring here for years, apparently. he also said the cops are pretty chill, as long as you don’t cause trouble. which, fair enough.
i’ve been trying to find some good vintage shops, but it’s proving difficult. most of the stuff is either brand new or falling apart. i did find this amazing embroidered blouse though, for like, five bucks. score! if you’re into that kind of thing, check out this local board: Morelia Expats.
the neighbors here are…loud. really loud. there’s a rooster that starts crowing at four in the morning, and a guy who practices his trumpet at all hours. but it’s a good kind of loud, you know? it feels…alive. if you get bored, Guadalajara and Mexico City are just a short bus ride away. i’m thinking of taking a day trip to Pátzcuaro* next week - i heard the lake is beautiful. you can find some reviews on Yelp.
i’m starting to think i need a new pair of drumsticks. and maybe a stronger air conditioner. and definitely more coffee. i’ve been reading about the local coffee scene on Bean Hunter.
“That taco stand on Avenida Madero? Forget about it. Food poisoning waiting to happen.”
that was some drunk advice i got last night. i’m still debating whether to risk it. honestly, everything smells so good here, it’s hard to resist. i’m just gonna go with my gut…and maybe pack some imodium, just in case.
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