lugo: where indie scouts freeze and find hidden gems
landing in lugo feels like stepping into a damp, forgotten postcard. i just checked and it's this damp, foggy mess out there, hope you like that kind of thing. perfect for the moody, atmospheric scenes i'm after for the new indie flick. the locals are used to it, of course. they move through the mist like ghosts, their breath visible in the air.
been scouting locations for three days now. the roman walls are epic, but the fog makes everything look like a horror movie set. which is great, because that's the vibe. found this little bar called *o fumeiro tucked away in the old town. the owner, a guy named manuel, doesn't speak much english but he's got this old film projector in the corner and plays black and white movies some nights. totally vibe.
if you run out of steam, santiago and a coruƱa are just a quick jaunt away. santiago is more about the pilgrimage, but a coruƱa? that's where you go for the coastal shots. and the seafood? off the hook. but that's another trip.
someone told me that the old town walls have a hidden spiral staircase that leads to a secret balcony with the best view of the cathedral. i haven't found it yet, but manuel gave me a nod when i asked about it. he knows. he always knows.
been hitting up the local tapas bars every night. one thing about lugo: you don't go looking for food, you let it find you. but i did check out this tapas bar that a local recommended. solid. and for the coffee, there's this place called cafeteria aires* that's basically the unofficial meeting spot for the film crowd. they've got these huge windows that overlook the plaza, perfect for observing.
someone told me that the old town walls have a hidden spiral staircase that leads to a secret balcony with the best view of the cathedral.
I heard that the tapas bar at the corner of Rua San Pedro and Rua Nova has the best pulpo a la gallega in the whole city, but only if you go after 10pm.
also, for the gear, i'm lugging around a sony a7iii and a drone. the fog is playing havoc with the drone footage, but the ground shots? magic. and if you're thinking of coming, pack layers. it's not cold enough for snow, but it's damp cold that gets into your bones. and don't forget your galicia tourism guide, it's got all the hidden spots.
one last thing: i checked out the local cinema, cinema novo, and they do indie screenings. met a director there last night who's shooting a documentary about the camino. said he's got a scene in the cathedral that needs an extra. might stick around for that. you know, for the art.
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