Kyoto’s Got a Grip (and Maybe a Ghost)
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm matcha. the time difference is a monster. i landed in kyoto yesterday, and honestly, it’s… intense. like, aggressively beautiful intense. the air smells like damp moss and something vaguely floral, and it’s clinging to everything. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the humidity is a solid 32%, which is basically a sauna hug. pressure’s at 1020, which feels…stable? i don’t know. i just want a nap.
my hotel, the ‘lantern house,’ is tucked away in a side street near gion. it’s tiny, like, postage stamp tiny, but the tatami mats are amazing. i’m already contemplating buying a whole set to build a fort in my living room. it’s a weird impulse, i know. i’m also pretty sure i saw a rat earlier. a big rat. don’t tell anyone.
i spent the afternoon wandering around fushimi inari shrine. thousands of those bright orange torii gates snaking up the mountain. it’s a workout, let me tell you. my calves are screaming. i almost tripped like, five times. someone told me that the foxes are sacred here, and they’re supposed to be messengers of the gods. i didn’t see any foxes, but i did see a guy selling fox-shaped fortune cookies. that’s…something.
i tried to find a decent ramen place, and it was a disaster. i ended up at this tiny place called ‘hana’ - it was basically a counter with five stools. the broth was…okay. the noodles were a little mushy. i overheard a group of college students arguing about the best way to slurp noodles. it was surprisingly heated. i think i just ordered another matcha latte to cope.
i’m starting to think kyoto is haunted. seriously. i was walking past a small temple last night, and i swear i heard a faint chanting. and then i saw a flicker of movement in the corner of my eye. i’m not saying it was a ghost, but… i’m not not saying it was a ghost. i’m leaning heavily towards ghost.
*pro-tip:* if you’re going to fushimi inari, wear good shoes. seriously. like, invest in some serious hiking boots. and bring water. and maybe a ghost detector. just in case. i heard that the best time to go is early morning to avoid the crowds, but honestly, i kind of like the chaos. it adds to the vibe.
i’m also trying to find a decent vintage kimono shop. i need something to wear for my inevitable ghost hunt. i’m thinking a dramatic purple one with a lot of tassels. it’s a vibe.
i checked out a local board online - it’s called ‘kyoto whispers’ - and someone posted about a hidden tea house in the bamboo forest. apparently, it’s only open to those who can answer a riddle. i’m intrigued. i’m also looking at some TripAdvisor reviews for the Golden Pavilion - most people say it’s crowded, but someone else told me that if you go at sunset, it’s magical. i’m adding it to my list.
if you get bored, Osaka is just a short drive away. i’m thinking of checking out Dotonbori tomorrow. i heard that the street food is insane. i’m also looking at Yelp for some good cocktail bars.
i’m seriously considering buying a small shrine and setting it up in my hotel room. just to, you know, ward off the ghosts. or maybe just to look cool. i don’t know. i’m lost.
i’m going to try and get some sleep. i’m pretty sure i’m hallucinating.
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