Kyoto Chaos: Noodles, Ghosts, and Seriously Weird Rain

okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on caffeine and the sheer weirdness of this place. 2112234… that’s the number of matcha lattes i’ve consumed in the last 48 hours. seriously. and 1392168361? don’t even ask. it just… appeared on a vending machine. it’s probably a glitch, but it’s become my lucky number. i’m not saying it is, but…

Highway leading towards distant blue mountains under cloudy sky.

The weather here is… intense. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s like a perpetual, slightly damp, grey hug. the humidity is clinging to everything - my camera, my socks, my sanity. 81% - that’s a real number, by the way. the pressure is 1022, which feels…stable. like a really solid, slightly heavy, stone. it’s not bad, just…present.

I’m staying in this tiny ryokan near Gion. it’s basically a glorified cupboard with a tatami mat and a view of a very polite man sweeping the street. he’s called Kenji, and he makes the best miso soup i’ve ever had. if you get bored, Osaka is just a short drive away. someone told me that the ramen there is legendary, but honestly, i’m still trying to process the sheer volume of green tea.

Kyoto is… a lot. it’s like stepping into a painting that’s been slightly warped by time and a whole lot of incense. the temples are beautiful, obviously, but there’s this underlying current of something else. something…older. i spent yesterday wandering through Fushimi Inari-taisha, and i swear i felt a chill down my spine. not a bad chill, just… a knowing chill.

I’m trying to be a responsible blogger, so i’ve checked out a few TripAdvisor reviews. someone told me that the Nishiki Market is a must-see, but also that you should avoid the pickled plums at all costs. “They’ll haunt your dreams,” the review said. i’m taking that with a grain of salt, obviously. i heard that the geisha district is best experienced at night, but be prepared to pay a premium for a photo op. and i heard that the bamboo forest is crowded during the day, so go early. seriously, early.

I’m also trying to document my gear. it’s a disaster, honestly.

Camera: Sony a7iii (mostly just used to take pictures of noodles)
Lenses: 24-70mm f/2.8 (essential), 50mm f/1.8 (for moody portraits of temples)
Drone: DJI Mini 3 Pro (because why not?)
Backup Batteries: Like, a lot of them.
Portable Charger: Because my phone dies faster than a goldfish.
Notebook & Pen: For scribbling down random thoughts and ramen recommendations.
Duct Tape: You never know.

I stumbled across a little shop selling antique scrolls* down a side street. the owner, a wizened old man with a twinkle in his eye, kept muttering about ghosts and forgotten spirits. he wouldn’t tell me anything specific, just that Kyoto holds a lot of memories - both good and bad. he pointed me towards a small, unassuming shrine tucked away in a quiet alleyway. it’s called Honogutsu Shrine, and it’s dedicated to good fortune. i threw a coin in and made a wish (something about not dying of matcha overdose).

I’m starting to think this whole ghost thing is real. i’ve been hearing strange noises at night - whispers, footsteps, the occasional mournful sigh. i even saw a flicker of movement in the corner of my eye last night. it could have been a cat, but…

a building with a sign on the front of it

Seriously, if you’re planning a trip to Kyoto, check out this local board: https://www.kyotoguide.org/. And for the best ramen, head to Ichiran - it’s a bit of a queue, but totally worth it. Also, Yelp has some decent reviews: https://www.yelp.com/. And if you're looking for a good place to stay, TripAdvisor is your friend: https://www.tripadvisor.com/.

Okay, i’m going to go find another matcha latte. or maybe a ghost. who knows?

Kyoto Chaos: Noodles, Ghosts, and Seriously Weird Rain

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About the author: Isabella Hart

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