Dust & Echoes in San Sebastián: A Slightly Broken Trip
okay, so, i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. 1276358… that’s the number of cigarettes i’ve inhaled trying to stay awake. 1356209475… honestly, i have no idea what that is. it just is. i landed in San Sebastián yesterday, and it’s… intense. like, aggressively beautiful intense. the air smells like salt and something vaguely floral, which is weird, but i’m not complaining.
It’s 8.24 feels-like, 7.49 temp, pressure’s a solid 1015, humidity’s hovering around 44 - basically, a perfect day for wandering around and feeling vaguely lost. i checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the beach is packed, but not in a suffocating way. more like a really enthusiastic, slightly sweaty, collective sigh of contentment.
I’m staying in this tiny place near Gros, which is, like, the coolest part of town. it’s all cobblestone streets and pintxos bars that spill out onto the sidewalks. i found this place called Bar Nestor - seriously, the best pintxos i’ve ever had. someone told me that the tortilla de patatas is legendary, and they weren’t kidding. it’s a greasy, salty, utterly perfect slice of heaven. i’m pretty sure i gained five pounds just from that one bite.
Speaking of locals, if you get bored, Bilbao is just a short drive away. there’s this old woman, Señora Elena, who runs the flower stall near the harbor. she’s got this permanent squint and a voice like gravel, but she’s got the best advice. she overheard me complaining about my camera gear and said, "Don’t overthink it, chico. Just capture the light." which, you know, is basically the gospel.
I spent most of today just wandering, snapping pictures, and generally existing. i stumbled upon this amazing little art gallery tucked away in a side street - it was all abstract stuff, which is usually my kryptonite, but this artist, Iñaki Azpiazu, was actually really good. i’m thinking of buying one of his prints, but i’m also thinking of just buying a whole wall full.
I heard that the Zurriola beach is where all the surfers hang out, but i’m more of a pavement-watcher kind of person. i did see a guy trying to learn to surf, though. he looked absolutely miserable. i felt bad for him, but also kind of impressed.
Here’s the gear list, because someone always asks:
Camera (obviously) - a battered Canon AE-1, because why not?
Notebook - filled with illegible scribbles and half-formed ideas
Sketchbook - mostly doodles of pintxos
Comfortable shoes - essential for all the walking
A healthy dose of cynicism - helps with the inevitable disappointment
A ridiculously oversized hat - for sun protection and general coolness
I also checked out TripAdvisor for some recommendations, and Yelp for the best pintxos bars. Seriously, Yelp is a godsend. TripAdvisor San Sebastián and Yelp San Sebastián are your friends.
Someone also warned me about the tide - apparently, it comes in fast and can sweep you off your feet. i’m not sure i believe that, but i’m definitely keeping an eye on the water.
Overall, San Sebastián is… a mess. a beautiful, chaotic, delicious mess. i’m exhausted, slightly sunburned, and completely content. i’m gonna find another pintxos bar and drown my sorrows in jamón ibérico.
And, you know, maybe try to figure out 1356209475. it’s probably nothing important. probably.
Check out this local board for events: San Sebastián Events
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