Dust & Echoes in Oaxaca: Seriously, What *Is* This Place?
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee right now. 1277581… that’s the number of times i’ve nearly tripped over a stray dog in the last 48 hours. 1356744342… that’s the approximate number of times i’ve said ‘wow’ in this city. and honestly? it’s still not enough.
this isn’t a postcard-perfect kind of trip, you know? it’s… gritty. it’s the smell of roasting chiles battling with something vaguely floral, the constant hum of motorbikes, and the way the sun bleeds orange onto everything at dusk. the air feels thick, like you could chew it. the temperature’s been hovering around 28.76 degrees Celsius - feels like 29.35, which is basically a sauna with a slight breeze. the pressure’s 1007, humidity’s 50, sea level’s 1007, and ground level is… 1006. weird, right? i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing.
i landed in Oaxaca City yesterday and immediately felt like i’d stumbled into a movie set - a really chaotic, wonderfully messy one. the streets are a tangle of cobblestones and brightly painted buildings, overflowing with vendors selling everything from handwoven textiles to mole negro (which, by the way, is a religious experience). i’m staying in this little courtyard place near the zocalo - it’s basically a glorified patio with a leaky roof and the most amazing view of the *church across the way.
someone told me that the best tlayudas are at El Jardín del Laurel - seriously, don’t miss it. i heard that the mezcal shots at La Mezcaloteca are lethal, but worth it if you’re feeling brave. i also heard that the local police are… let’s just say they have a unique approach to crowd control. i’m not saying it’s good, but it’s definitely memorable.
i spent the morning wandering through the markets, getting completely lost and haggling for souvenirs. i snagged a beautiful hand-embroidered shawl - it’s ridiculously bright, but i’m obsessed. i also tried to learn some Spanish, which mostly resulted in confused stares and a lot of pointing.
last night, i stumbled upon this tiny bar called “El Corazón” - it was packed with locals, all laughing and singing. i ordered a mezcal (obviously) and just soaked it all in. the bartender, a guy named Ricardo, told me stories about the city’s history, about the indigenous traditions, about the struggles and the triumphs. he was a total legend.
i’m trying to document everything, but honestly, my camera roll is already overflowing. here’s a quick gear list, because i know you guys are always asking:
*Camera: Sony a7iii (duh) - it’s seen better days, but it still kicks ass.
*Lenses: 35mm, 50mm, and a ridiculously wide-angle lens for getting lost.
*Notebook & Pen: For capturing all the random thoughts and observations.
*Reusable Water Bottle: Staying hydrated is key, especially in this heat.
*Sunscreen: Seriously, don’t be a fool.
if you get bored, Guadalajara is just a short drive away. it’s a bit of a trek, but the food is incredible.
i’m heading to Monte Alban tomorrow - an ancient Zapotec* city perched on a mountaintop. apparently, the views are insane. i’m hoping to get some good shots, but honestly, i’m just excited to explore another layer of this incredible place.
i’m trying to find a decent coffee shop, but honestly, everything here is pretty good. i found one called “Café Orgánico” - it’s small and cozy, with a great selection of local brews. check it out: https://www.yelp.com/biz/cafe-organico-oaxaca-city
i’m starting to think Oaxaca is one of those places that gets under your skin. it’s not always easy, it’s not always pretty, but it’s always real. and that’s exactly what i’m looking for.
oh, and one last thing: don’t be afraid to get lost. that’s where the magic happens.
check out some more photos and travel tips on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g150825-Oaxaca_Oaxaca_State-Vacations.html
stay tuned for more updates from Oaxaca!
P.S. - if you’re looking for a good place to eat, I heard that “Los Danzantes” is amazing, but it’s always packed.
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