Dumaguete Dreams & Slightly Sticky Skin: A Botanist's Ramblings
okay, so dumaguete. philippines. i’m still peeling, honestly. like, a gentle, persistent shedding of skin that reminds me i spent way too much time sweating under the sun. i just checked and it’s a humid hug out there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. twenty-five point something degrees, feels like it too. not complaining, exactly. just…aware.
this trip was supposed to be about orchids. specifically, phalaenopsis orchids. i’m obsessed. i’ve got a whole greenhouse back home, a chaotic jungle of them, and i wanted to see them in their natural habitat. and dumaguete seemed like a good place to start. it is a good place to start, actually. it’s got this…vibe. a low-key, student-y, slightly dusty vibe that i really dig.
my days were mostly spent wandering around, notebook in hand, trying to identify every weird and wonderful plant i could find. i’m pretty sure i saw a new species of moss. or maybe it was just really, really interesting existing moss. hard to tell sometimes. i spent a ridiculous amount of time staring at ferns. don’t judge me.
food was…an experience. i ate a lot of grilled fish. a lot. and mangoes. so many mangoes. i’m pretty sure i’m 70% mango now. someone told me that the best kinilaw (ceviche) is at this tiny place near the university. i haven’t found it yet, but i’m determined. i’ve been checking Yelp for recommendations, but honestly, the best tips come from just chatting with people.
“Don’t trust the tricycle drivers who offer you ‘special tours.’ They’ll take you to a souvenir shop where everything is overpriced and made in China.”
that was drunk advice from a guy i met at a karaoke bar. he was singing a surprisingly good rendition of ‘Bohemian Rhapsody.’ i’m taking his word for it. tricycles are everywhere, though. they’re the main mode of transport. and they’re…an adventure.
if you get bored, sibulan and zamboanguita are just a short drive away. i didn’t make it to either, but i heard they have some amazing waterfalls. next time. i also need to check out Apo Island. apparently, the snorkeling is incredible. you can find some good reviews on TripAdvisor. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g613823-Activities-Apo_Island_Dumaguete_Negros_Oriental_Island_of_Negros.html
okay, quick gear list for aspiring plant nerds:
Field notebook: obviously. waterproof is a plus. i learned that the hard way.
*Magnifying glass: essential for examining tiny details.
*Plant identification app: i use PictureThis. it’s not perfect, but it’s helpful.
*Good walking shoes: you’ll be doing a lot of walking.
*Bug spray: seriously. don’t forget the bug spray.
*Sunscreen: even on cloudy days.
*Reusable water bottle: stay hydrated!
I overheard someone complaining about the internet being slow. they were right. it’s…challenging. but i managed to upload my photos, eventually. i’m already planning my return trip. i need to find that kinilaw* and those waterfalls. and maybe learn a few more Tagalog phrases. i know, like, three right now. “Magandang araw” (good day) and “Salamat” (thank you) are my go-to’s. and “Isang mango, please!” (one mango, please!).
check out this local forum for more tips: https://www.dumagueteinfo.com/
and if you're looking for a place to stay, I saw some good reviews for this guesthouse on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/biz/harana-resort-dumaguete
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