Dhaka Diaries: Sweat, Spices, and Seriously Good Biryani
okay, so. dhaka. wow. just…wow. i’m still peeling the dust out of my ears, honestly. i’m a botanist, which means i’m usually knee-deep in ferns and moss, not dodging rickshaws and negotiating for mangoes, but hey, fieldwork is fieldwork, right? i was here researching some obscure medicinal plant - don’t ask, it’s a long story involving a grant and a very persistent professor - and ended up…well, here.
I just checked and it's hovering around thirty-seven point five degrees, feels like thirty-five, and the humidity is clinging to you like a second skin. It’s the kind of heat that makes your glasses fog up instantly and your hair immediately resemble a bird’s nest. I’m not gonna lie, it’s intense. But there’s a…vibrancy to it, a chaotic energy that’s kind of addictive.
I spent most of my time in *Old Dhaka, which is…an experience. Narrow alleyways overflowing with people, vendors hawking everything imaginable, the smell of spices so thick you could practically taste it. Seriously, the food. Oh, the food. I’m pretty sure I gained five pounds just from biryani alone. Someone told me that the best biryani is at a place called Fakir Ali Hotel - apparently, you have to queue for an hour, but it’s worth it. I didn’t queue, I just wandered into a random place and got some. It was still incredible. I’m already dreaming of going back for more. Check out some reviews on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g293862-Dhaka.html
I did manage to find a few pockets of green amidst the concrete jungle. The Bangabandhu Memorial Museum has a surprisingly lovely garden - a little oasis of calm. And I stumbled upon a tiny rooftop garden in Gulshan where a woman was growing herbs and vegetables. It was so unexpected and beautiful. I even managed to collect some samples of my target plant - success!
Speaking of Gulshan, if you get bored, Chittagong and Rajshahi are just a short drive away. I didn't make it out there this time, but I’ve heard they’re worth a visit. I also heard that the traffic is…challenging. Like, really challenging. Drunk advice from a local at a tea stall warned me to “just accept the chaos and go with the flow.” He wasn’t wrong.
My accommodation was…rustic. Let’s just say I’m very grateful for mosquito nets. I found it through a local board - https://www.bdrooms.com/ - and it was cheap, which is always a bonus when you’re on a botanist’s budget. It wasn’t fancy, but it was clean and the people were incredibly friendly.
One thing I learned quickly: bargaining is essential. Everything is negotiable. Don’t accept the first price you’re given. Seriously, everything. I managed to haggle a rickshaw driver down to half his initial fare. Felt a little bad, but hey, a girl’s gotta save her pennies.
I also spent some time wandering around Shantibagh*, which is apparently a hub for street art. It’s not exactly Banksy, but it’s got a raw, authentic energy. I wish I’d brought more art supplies. Maybe next time. You can find some local artists and galleries listed on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=art+gallery&find_loc=Dhaka%2C+Bangladesh
Honestly, Dhaka isn’t for the faint of heart. It’s loud, it’s chaotic, it’s hot, and it’s dusty. But it’s also incredibly vibrant, full of life, and bursting with flavor. It’s a place that gets under your skin and stays with you long after you’ve left. I’m already planning my return trip. Just need to figure out how to pack lighter next time…and maybe invest in a really good mosquito repellent. Also, check out this guide to Bangladesh: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/bangladesh
You might also be interested in:
- https://votoris.com/post/pune-you-weird-little-gem-and-my-quest-for-the-perfect-misal
- https://votoris.com/post/bangalore-where-the-coffee-is-strong-and-the-traffic-is-stronger
- https://votoris.com/post/so-paulo-a-digital-nomads-messy-love-letter-to-chaos
- https://votoris.com/post/omaha-nebraska-turns-out-itssomething
- https://votoris.com/post/exploring-santos-brazil-a-coffee-snobs-messy-adventure