Cebu City: Humidity, Halo-Halo, and Honestly, Just Trying to Cope

okay, so i’m currently sweating through everything i own in *Cebu City, Philippines. it’s…a lot. like, a lot a lot. i think my internal organs are considering filing a formal complaint. i landed with these numbers floating around in my head - 1704567 and 1608432162, which, honestly, feel more relevant to a tax audit than a vacation.

i’m a freelance photographer, which means i chase light and interesting faces, and Cebu has both in spades. but the light is…sticky. the air is thick enough to chew. i just checked and it’s hovering around twenty-four degrees, but feels like you’re standing in front of a hairdryer. the humidity is practically a sentient being. ninety-two percent, people! ninety-two! my camera bag is developing its own ecosystem.

i’ve been wandering around, mostly getting lost in the Carbon Market. it’s…an experience. sensory overload doesn’t even begin to cover it. mountains of mangoes, the smell of dried fish, people shouting, scooters weaving through crowds… it’s beautiful chaos. i overheard someone saying that if you’re looking for authentic lechon (roasted pig), you gotta go to Zubuchon. Apparently, it’s worth battling a small army of tourists for. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g298460-d1064949-Reviews-Zubuchon_Lahug-Cebu_City_Cebu_Island_Visayas.html

i’m staying in a little guesthouse near Colon Street, which is…loud. perpetually loud. the walls are thin, and my neighbor seems to be practicing karaoke at all hours. if you get restless, Bohol is just a ferry ride away, and people say it's a bit more chill.

someone told me that the best halo-halo (shaved ice dessert) is at Al’s, but you have to get there before noon or they sell out. Apparently, people take their halo-halo seriously here.

i spent yesterday trying to photograph Fort San Pedro. it’s a cool little fort, but honestly, the real story is the pigeons. hundreds of them. it was like a Hitchcock film, but with more historical significance. https://www.yelp.com/biz/fort-san-pedro-cebu-city

i also tried to find some good street art, but it’s surprisingly scarce. i heard a rumor that there’s a hidden alleyway near the university with some murals, but i haven’t managed to track it down yet. maybe tomorrow. i’m also trying to figure out the local bus system, which feels like deciphering ancient hieroglyphs. https://www.cebu.gov.ph/ is the official government site, but it's not super helpful for bus routes, tbh.

the pressure is at 1013, which, according to my weather app, means…nothing particularly interesting. the sea level is also 1013, which feels redundant. the ground level is 1007, which is…slightly lower? i’m starting to suspect my weather app is just making things up.

i’ve been chatting with some locals, and they’re incredibly friendly. everyone keeps offering me mangoes, which i gratefully accept. i overheard a group of students talking about a hidden waterfall outside the city, but they warned me that it’s a bit of a trek and you need to hire a guide.

apparently, there’s a guy named Kuya Ben who’s the best guide for Kawasan Falls, but you have to book him weeks in advance.

honestly, i’m exhausted. the heat, the humidity, the constant noise… it’s a lot to take in. but it’s also…amazing. Cebu City is raw, real, and unapologetically itself. it’s not a postcard-perfect paradise, but it’s a place that gets under your skin. i’m going to go find some more halo-halo* and try to figure out how to survive another day in this beautiful, sweaty chaos. check out this forum for more local tips: https://www.expat.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=389119

Cebu City: Humidity, Halo-Halo, and Honestly, Just Trying to Cope

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About the author: Victor Knight

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