buenos aires: a nervous dance with the city’s chaos
i woke up to the sound of a street musician playing a broken guitar and immediately knew this was going to be one of those days. the air here is thick, like it’s holding its breath, and i just checked and it’s 25 degrees, which is basically a sauna if you’re not used to it. i didn’t pack enough water, but i’m surviving. the humidity is at 87%, which means my socks are now a science experiment. if you get bored, montevideo is just a short drive away, but honestly, i’m too lazy to move.
i’ve been bouncing between hostels and cafes, each one more chaotic than the last. one hostel had a fridge that only worked at 3 am, and another cafe had a bartender who claimed he’d seen a ghost in the mirror. i heard that somewhere, but i can’t confirm it. someone told me that the locals here hate tourists, but i also heard that they secretly want you to stay. it’s confusing.
there’s this café in san telmo that’s always full of artists and wanderers. i heard that the owner once got into a fight with a tourist who asked for a free espresso. i saw a picture of it online, but i can’t remember if it was real or if someone just photoshopped a cat into the background. the weather here is this sticky 25 degrees, hope you like that kind of thing. if you’re looking for a place to stay, check out the hostel on yelp. i didn’t look at reviews, but i heard that some people say it’s haunted. others say it’s just really old.
i took a walk by the river and saw a bunch of people doing yoga. the instructor was wearing a shirt that said ‘i survived 2023’ and i thought it was a joke. but then i realized she was probably just trying to make people feel better. the neighborhood is a mix of old buildings and new graffiti. one wall had a mural of a giant banana, which was confusing. i also saw a sign that said ‘no dogs’ but a guy with a poodle was sitting on a bench. he didn’t seem to mind.
the beach here is called la palomar, and it’s supposed to be nice, but i never went. i heard that the water is polluted, but i also heard that it’s the best place to find a good taco. i’m not sure which is true. i tried a taco from a food truck and it was okay, but the owner kept asking me questions in spanish. i didn’t understand half of it, but i nodded a lot. maybe that’s how you build rapport.
i saw a guy selling pictures of himself on the street. he was wearing a vest that said ‘i’m not a tourist’ and he looked offended when someone asked for a photo. he said something about authenticity, but i don’t think he meant it. i also heard that the park near here is haunted. someone told me that if you scream loud enough at night, you might attract a ghost. i didn’t try it. i’m not that brave.
i’ve been using a map app all day, and it’s weird how it always tells me to go through areas that look like they’re from a horror movie. the streets here are narrow and crowded, and the air feels like it’s been compressed. i’m not sure if it’s the heat or the people, but it’s definitely oppressive. the pressure is at 1009 hPa, which I think is normal, but it feels like the city is holding its breath too.
if you’re into history, there’s this old building that looks like it belongs in a steampunk movie. i went inside and saw a bunch of dusty books and a sign that said ‘entrance fee: 10 pesos or a soul.’ i didn’t pay, but i felt like i owed something. the neighborhoods here are all different. one is super fancy with fancy houses, another is super run-down with graffiti everywhere. it’s like the city is trying to tell me something, but i can’t figure it out.
i heard that the best way to experience this place is to get lost. i tried that, and i ended up in a market where they sold things I didn’t know existed. there was a stall with what looked like a giant spoon made of metal, and another with a bag of rice that was priced at $5. I bought the rice. it was good. the weather here is this 25 degrees, hope you like that kind of thing. if you’re looking for a place to eat, check out the restaurant on tripadvisor. I didn’t look at the reviews, but I heard that some people say the food is amazing. others say it’s just a bunch of burnt tortillas.
i’m not sure if I’ll return. it’s too hot, too loud, and too strange. but maybe that’s the point. I heard that the real beauty of a city is in its chaos, and I think I’m starting to believe that. the neighbors here are weird, but in a good way. one family had a cat that wore a tie, another had a dog that could do tricks. I don’t know if they’re real or if I’m just losing my mind.
i took a photo of the sun setting over the city, but the image is just a blur of colors. I don’t know if it’s beautiful or if it’s just the heat messing with my eyes. the feels like is 25.92, which is like a gentle reminder that I’m not in a winter wonderland.
if you’re thinking of coming here, don’t do it alone. I heard that stories tend to get louder the more people you bring. but if you’re brave, or stupid, or just really curious, this place might just change you. or at least give you a good story.
i’m going to sleep now. the air is still sticky, and I don’t know if I’ll wake up. but if I do, I’ll probably write this down. the city is strange, but it’s not wrong. it’s just... human.
check out the local board for events, and maybe a photoshoot at unsplash. the photos there are great. I saw one of a woman standing in between trees, which is exactly what I needed.
i hope you like this kind of thing. i don’t either, but here we are.
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