Bologna, You Weird Little Gem (and My Sleep Schedule's Paying the Price)

okay, so. bologna. i didn't expect to love it this much. i mean, i knew it was supposed to be, like, the food capital of italy, which is a pretty high bar, right? but it’s…more than that. it’s got this chaotic energy, this feeling like everyone’s got a secret and they’re all just casually ignoring you while they’re arguing about pasta shapes. which, honestly, is my vibe.

I just checked and it’s drizzling a bit, a sort of persistent, damp hug. hope you like that kind of thing. it’s not exactly sunshine and beaches, but it’s…atmospheric. perfect for wandering around and getting delightfully lost. which, let me tell you, is easy to do. the porticoes! they’re everywhere. like, a city-wide umbrella. genius.

I spent most of my time just…observing. sitting in cafes, nursing espresso (seriously, the espresso here is next level. i’m going to need to find a way to smuggle some home), and watching the world go by. i found this amazing little place, Osteria dell’Orsa, near the university. Apparently, it’s a student haunt. Someone told me that if you don’t elbow your way to a table, you’re doing it wrong. It was packed, loud, and the tagliatelle al ragù was…well, it was worth the elbowing. Check it out on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/biz/osteria-dell-orsa-bologna.

I also stumbled upon Piazza Maggiore, which is obviously a tourist hotspot, but still pretty impressive. The Basilica di San Petronio is…massive. I overheard a couple arguing about whether it was ever finished. Apparently, there’s a giant blank space on one side because they ran out of money. Classic.

My attempts at being a sophisticated traveler were immediately thwarted by the fact that I kept getting distracted by the food. I mean, mortadella. Everywhere. I’m not even mad about it. I bought, like, a pound to bring home. Don’t judge me. I also tried the crescentine, which are these fried dough pillows. They’re basically edible clouds of happiness. I found a great little bakery near the Santo Stefano complex. You can find reviews on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g187833-Bologna_Emilia-Romagna.html.

Speaking of Santo Stefano, that place is wild. It’s like a cluster of seven churches all mashed together. It’s got this labyrinthine feel, which I appreciated. I got completely lost, naturally. I think I ended up in a tiny chapel dedicated to some obscure saint. It was…peaceful.

If you get bored, Modena and Ferrara are just a short train ride away. I didn’t make it to either, but I heard they’re worth checking out. I was too busy eating pasta and wandering around Bologna.

I also overheard some drunk guy at a bar telling everyone that the best gelato in the city is at La Sorbetteria Castiglione. Apparently, the pistachio is life-changing. I didn’t try it myself, but I’m adding it to the list for next time.

Honestly, Bologna just…felt real. It wasn’t trying to be anything it wasn’t. It was just a city full of people eating good food and arguing about pasta. And I was here for it. I’m already planning my return trip. Maybe I’ll even learn how to make tagliatelle al ragù. Probably not, though. I’ll just keep eating it.

For more info on Bologna, check out this local forum: https://www.bologna-today.com/.

Oh, and the weather? It’s still drizzling. But hey, at least it’s not raining. Yet.

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