athens, greece: a broke student's guide to not melting into the pavement
okay, so i'm in athens and it's hot. like, my water bottle is sweating more than i am. i just checked the weather and it's 31.77°c but feels like 32.87? what even is that? feels like my phone is about to shut down from overheating. humidity's at 45% though, which is weird because i expected it to be a sauna, but it's more like a dry oven? i'm not complaining, but still. i landed a few days ago after a ridiculous budget flight that smelled like old cheese. my hostel is in a neighborhood called *psiri (i think? the sign was in greek and my greek is limited to 'yamas' and 'efcharisto'). the walls are thin, the bed is a slab of concrete with a sheet, and the AC is a myth. but hey, it's 10 euros a night so i can't really bitch. here's where i'm at:
first thing you notice about athens is the contrast: ancient ruins everywhere, but also graffiti and street art that would make your art school friends weep with envy. i spent my first day just wandering around the acropolis area, which is obviously stunning, but be warned: it's a tourist zoo. if you actually want to see the parthenon without a thousand selfie sticks, you gotta go at opening time. someone told me that sunrise is magic, but my body refused to wake up before 8am because i was recovering from the jet lag and the previous night's cheap ouzo.
speaking of cheap eats: i've been surviving on souvlaki from these little hole-in-the-wall places. like, 2.50 euros for a pita stuffed with meat, tomatoes, and fries (yes, fries inside, don't knock it till you try it). i found this one spot called kostas in plaka that's supposed to be legendary. there's always a line, but it moves fast. Yelp also, if you're into street food, the kotopita (chicken pie) from a bakery in monastiraki is a game-changer. i'm eating my body weight in these.
now, the weather: it's hot, but not humid-humid. 45% humidity means you don't feel like a swamp monster, but you still sweat. i've learned to carry a small towel and wear linen. also, greeks seem to have a talent for napping in the middle of the day. i tried that once and woke up with a pillow print on my face. priceless. one thing that surprised me: the nightlife. athens doesn't shut down at 10pm. in fact, the psiri and gazi districts go off until 4am. cheap bars, live music, and people dancing on tables. i went to a place called six d.o.g.s (yeah, that's the name) and had a blast. TripAdvisor just don't expect to sleep much. neighbors: if you get bored of ancient stuff, the saronic islands are just a short ferry away. i took a day trip to aegina and rented a scooter (20 euros for the day) to zip around, eat fresh pistachios (they're famous for them), and swim in crystal water. the ferry from piraeus takes about 40 minutes and costs like 8 euros return. totally worth it. Local ferry schedule also, crete is further but if you have time, go. but that's more of a week-long trip.
reviews: i heard from a local that the acropolis museum is way better than the actual site if you're short on time and hate crowds. i went, and honestly, the artifacts are stunning and the building itself is a work of art. TripAdvisor also, someone told me to avoid the plaka area for food because it's touristy, but i actually had a decent moussaka at a place called paralia with a view of the acropolis. not bad for 12 euros. budget tips: - get an athens pass* if you plan to hit multiple sites. it covers the acropolis and a bunch of museums. Official site - use the metro. it's cheap and connects to everything. - stay in hostels outside the center if you want cheaper options, but factor in transport costs. - water: tap water is drinkable, so bring a bottle and refill. overall, athens is gritty, historic, and surprisingly affordable. yeah, it's hot, but you adapt. i've learned to embrace the siesta culture and eat like a king on a pauper's budget. just don't forget sunscreen and comfy shoes. your feet will thank you. ... and that's not even half of it.
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