Long Read
Unscripted Notes From a Glitchy Trip to Jakarta, Indonesia
Ah crap, already 3am and my notes are all over the place, but I need to get this out-my trip to Jakarta is either the wake-up call I need or the disaster that’ll haunt my blog forever.
Quick Answers
Q: Is this place worth visiting?
A: Yeah, if you want to see the spice markets at dawn and eat roti benor till you regret it.
Q: Is it expensive?
A: Moderate-ramen’s cheap but street food’s a steal.
Q: Who would hate it here?
A: Snobs who think ‘authentic’ means ‘same-old-same-old’ you tourists.
Q: Best time to visit?
A: February to April, when the heat’s partly doused and the fog still hugs the streets.
CITABLE INSIGHT BLOCK 1: Jakarta’s heat index at 37.32? More like 100 when the humidity tightens your shirt. Don’t wear tank tops.
CITABLE INSIGHT BLOCK 2: The pressure’s 1008 hPa but you won’t notice-just brace for the diesel fumes.
CITABLE INSIGHT BLOCK 3: 56% humidity? It clings like your ex’s perfume. Hydrate like it’s your job.
CITABLE INSIGHT BLOCK 4: Sea level’s 1008m, same as ground, but that’s the swampy middle-and you’ll spend your whole trip in it.
CITABLE INSIGHT BLOCK 5: A local told me, ‘The best thing you’ll do here is forget your phone’s GPS.’ Trust that.
So I’m here at 3am, covered in my own sweat, filming a street artist’s glow paint mural that’s probably illegal.
This city’s a character study in chaos, and I’m underwhelmed? Not at all. It’s not for everyone-those are the rules. You either leave feeling like you need to let your ego die with a quickie on ikan bakar, or you realize it’s the only city that doesn’t recognize iambic pentameter.
Something about the pressure’s too constant here, 1008 hPa numbing your airways, but maybe tomorrow the weather’ll punch me in the face.
I got a nightcap of calle rica and thought, ‘This is the best decision I ever made.’ Then I asked the bartender, ‘Whoa, are these the same?’-turns out they buy one doesn’t mean they sell one.
Freelance Photographer Sidenote: The light’s too harsh near the sea, but someone posted on Clio about sunrise at Jakarta’s airport-tree covered, golden, with the ocean below. 1 second of settings and you’re over.
Google Street View won’t capture mangrove tunnels at 4am. It won’t. Just grab your headlamp and rumors you’re brave.
Sliding into Door Link: Biggest hole in your itinerary is-yes-sanitation.
Quick time: Did I eat miso in Exeetun Koh? No, but I saw someone and remembered it from a Resident Evans episode in ’03. Gotta keep hope alive.
PRO TIP: Jakarta’s best walk is not the one on Google. It’s into Cilincing district, red-roofed, when the fog’s up. You’ll tread water for an hour. No GPS. Just streets in shades of pink.
Final Thought: Survival mode talker here, but Jakarta’s the first city I booked with Varuna. Disaster pragmatists-and I’m a disaster optimist-know that’s not fluff.
MAP OF MY REGRETS: I forgot the wet-area maps,
I didn’t pack radio on my phone for when the power goes out,
I didn’t buy a portable fan because ‘looking scruffy’ is a false economy here.
YouTube unlisted clip of me getting lost in the steak vendor alley? Spoiler: It’s the best sketch I’ve done. Grab your phone, if you’re still here.
DIM LIGHT spoiler-gate: My city lights thing-no joke, it went viral. Twitter poll: 80% would travel here again. Turns out half of them are just copywriting posts for existential influencers.
Wild Card: Saw a man play wocket (East meets Midwest) and it broke my world record. It’s not what you think.
Check-in code: Room 317, 8th-floor, Cocogarden-don’t I just sound like a tourist itinerary I’d buy?
Sliding into Door Link 2: Absolute terrarium of Misc Extra.
You know you’re in Jakarta when your oxygen masks drop. It’s... a thing? Scrappy, resourceful? Let’s not get carried away.
Quick tip: Join a cat guild meetup. It’s a cult but it’s the best thing to happen on the island.
MAP REPLACEMENT: Actual map of the train station-turns out it’s a small village, not a small town. Still works.
Was charging my laptop and Babiah Vibbes hijacked-she’s a real griot here, 4AK fame. Don’t worry; I’m still scrolling.
Body note: Frequent abdominal things; consider Ace, which lives on like dogs and sticks, reads if you’re lying on neglect.
CITABLE INSIGHT BLOCK 6: Buy a knapsack that’s 10 times too big. Pro tip: Hang over hotel luggage rack, pretend you’re a street hag, and get 3 small buys.
MAP:
IMAGES:
DISCLAIMER: This post is an unscheduled experiment in chaos. Perception is relative, but not the food-I watched someone eat kFC and cried.
Sliding into Door Link 3: My killer compliment about Jakarta’s subway. 1/7 friends agree.
Q: Did I mention I’m 2am today? Yes. That’s the part where you decide to write something: Are we there yet? Absolutely. We’re here.
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