Surabaya: The City That Won't Let You Sleep

so here i am, Surabaya, Indonesia, and i'm not even sure what day it is. the air is thick, like someone's been simmering a pot of humidity for hours and forgot to turn it off. i just checked and it's 28.05°C out there right now, feels like 32.54°C, hope you like that kind of thing. the locals call it 'normal,' but my shirt is already sticking to my back and i've only been out for five minutes.

i heard from a guy at the hostel that the night markets here are insane. he said, "you haven't lived until you've tried the satay at Pasar Atom." i'm not sure if he was drunk or just really enthusiastic, but i'm inclined to believe him. the place is supposed to be open until 2am, which is perfect because i'm pretty sure i won't be sleeping anyway.

if you get bored, Malang and Batu are just a short drive away. someone told me that Malang has this old-school vibe, like stepping into a time machine. i'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing, but it's definitely something to check out if you're into that sort of thing.

i've been walking around the city, and it's like everyone here is in on some secret i don't know about. the streets are alive, even at midnight. i stopped at a warung for some nasi goreng, and the guy behind the counter just laughed when i asked if it was spicy. "of course," he said, like i was an idiot for even asking. it was spicy, by the way. really spicy.

"Surabaya is where the real Indonesia begins,"

a backpacker told me at a bar. i'm not sure if that's true, but it sounds good, right? i mean, the city is chaotic, loud, and a little overwhelming, but that's kind of the point. it's not here to coddle you; it's here to throw you into the deep end and see if you can swim.

i've been using *TripAdvisor to find places to eat, and Yelp for the occasional coffee shop. but honestly, the best spots are the ones you stumble upon when you're lost. like that little bakery i found that sells these weird, sweet pastries. i have no idea what they're called, but they're delicious.

"Don't trust the taxi drivers,"

another traveler warned me. "they'll take you on the scenic route and charge you double." i haven't had that problem yet, but i'm keeping my eyes open. you never know who's trying to pull a fast one on you.

if you're into history, there's the House of Sampoerna, which is apparently a museum and a cigarette factory. i'm not sure how those two things go together, but it's worth a visit if you're curious. and if you're into shopping, Tunjungan Plaza* is supposed to be the place to go. i haven't been there yet, but i've heard it's huge.

i'm not sure how long i'll stay in Surabaya. part of me wants to keep moving, but another part of me feels like i'm just starting to get the hang of things. the city has a way of pulling you in, even when you're trying to resist. and honestly, i'm not sure i want to resist anymore.

if you're planning a trip here, just know that Surabaya isn't for everyone. it's loud, it's busy, and it's not always easy to navigate. but if you're willing to embrace the chaos, you might just find something special. or you might end up lost and sweaty, like i am right now. either way, it's an adventure.

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