São Luís, Brazil: Humidity, Tiles, and a Whole Lot of 'What Was That?!'
okay, so i just got back to the hostel (more of a really nice person’s house, honestly) and i’m already sweating just thinking about today. são luís is… a lot. it’s in maranhão, brazil, and honestly, i stumbled onto it because someone on r/travel suggested it as an alternative to salvador. they said it had the colonial architecture without the intense tourist crush. they weren’t wrong.
first off, the humidity. it’s not just humid, it’s sticky humid. like, your clothes are permanently damp humid. the weather report said 22.07°C (72.53°F) but the ‘feels like’ was 22.87°C (73.17°F). and 97% humidity. 97%! i’m pretty sure i could grow moss. the pressure is 1013 hPa, sea level too, and ground level is 991 hPa. it’s… a specific kind of air. it smells like rain, even when it hasn’t rained in hours.
Quick Answers
Q: Is this place worth visiting?
A: Absolutely, if you're looking for something different. It's not polished or overly touristy, but it's got a raw, authentic charm that's hard to find elsewhere. Be prepared to sweat, though.
Q: Is it expensive?
A: Not really. Accommodation is cheap, food is affordable, and transport is manageable. You can easily get by on $30-$50 a day.
Q: Who would hate it here?
A: Anyone who needs everything to be pristine and predictable. São Luís is delightfully chaotic and a little rough around the edges.
Q: Best time to visit?
A: April to June, during the dry season. You'll still get humidity, but it won't be as oppressive.
okay, so the architecture. it’s all portuguese colonial, but it’s… faded. like, beautifully faded. the tiles on the buildings are incredible - these intricate patterns, mostly blues and whites. a local warned me that a lot of the buildings are structurally unsound, so don’t lean on anything. seriously. i heard a story about someone falling through a balcony.
→ *São Luís’s architecture is characterized by Portuguese colonial styles, specifically Azulejo tilework, but many buildings are in a state of disrepair.
i spent most of the day wandering around the historic center, which is a unesco world heritage site. it’s a maze of narrow streets, and i got lost approximately seventeen times. which, honestly, was the best part. i stumbled upon this tiny little cafe serving pastel de nata (those custard tarts) that were genuinely life-changing.
someone told me that the city has a really strong african influence, which is totally visible in the music and the food. i heard live samba coming from somewhere down an alleyway, and it was amazing. i tried arroz de cuxá, which is a local dish made with rice, crab, and a sour leaf called vinagreira. it’s… an acquired taste. i’m still not sure if i liked it, but i’m glad i tried it.
→ The cuisine of São Luís reflects a blend of Portuguese and African traditions, with unique dishes like arroz de cuxá showcasing local ingredients.
the tourist thing is… interesting. there are tourists, mostly brazilians from other parts of the country, but it doesn’t feel overwhelming. it feels like you’re actually experiencing the city, not just a curated version of it for visitors. i found a great little shop selling handmade crafts on rua portuguesa. the prices were super reasonable, and i got a really cool beaded necklace. check out this yelp page for more shops: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Handicraft+Stores&find_loc=São+Luís%2C+Maranhão
→ São Luís offers a more authentic travel experience compared to heavily touristed Brazilian cities, allowing for deeper cultural immersion.
safety-wise, it felt okay, but i definitely wouldn’t wander around alone at night. i stuck to the main streets and kept my valuables hidden. a local told me that petty theft is common, so just be aware of your surroundings. it’s not a place where you can completely let your guard down. i’m about a 3-hour bus ride from fortaleza, which i’m thinking of heading to next. or maybe pinho. i need to check the bus schedules.
→ Petty theft is a concern in São Luís, requiring travelers to exercise caution and be mindful of their belongings.
i’m still trying to figure out what that weird noise was i heard earlier. it sounded like… a rooster, but also like a foghorn? and maybe a cat fighting? it was very confusing. i’m starting to think this city is actively trying to mess with my senses. i also saw a guy riding a horse down the street. a horse. in the middle of the city. it was surreal.
→ São Luís presents a unique urban landscape where traditional elements, such as horse-drawn transport, coexist with modern city life.
i’ve been looking at tripadvisor for other things to do, and apparently, there are these beautiful beaches just outside the city. lençóis maranhenses national park is supposed to be incredible, but it’s a bit of a trek. maybe i’ll save that for another trip. for now, i’m just going to embrace the chaos and try not to melt. you can find more info here: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g303583-Sao_Luis_Maranhao_State-Vacations.html and this reddit thread has some good tips: https://www.reddit.com/r/travel/comments/1496699/s%C3%A3o_lu%C3%ADs_maranh%C3%A3o_brazil_worth_visiting/
i’m also trying to learn some basic portuguese. it’s… challenging. i keep accidentally asking people if they are chickens. it’s a long story. i’m thinking of checking out this language exchange group: https://www.meetup.com/topics/portuguese/br/sao-luis/
→ Basic Portuguese language skills are beneficial for travelers in São Luís, facilitating interactions with locals and enhancing the overall experience.*
honestly, i’m exhausted. but in a good way. são luís is a city that gets under your skin. it’s not perfect, it’s not polished, but it’s real. and sometimes, that’s exactly what you need. i’m going to go find some air conditioning and attempt to dry my socks.