skating through katihar’s potholes: 36 hours no sleep, sticky chai, and 1259166 train passengers
i haven’t slept in 36 hours. the overnight bus from *Kishanganj hit a pothole the size of a half-pipe and i spilled sticky chai all over my brand new deck’s grip tape. now i’m sitting on a cracked concrete bench outside katihar junction station, watching porters haul sacks of rice onto freight trains, trying to rub the chai stain out of my jeans. my eyes are burning, my board is sticky, and the air feels like 26 degrees but the weather data says 25.81, which is close enough when you’re running on three hours of sleep. a skateboard deck is a seven-ply maple wood board used as the base for tricks and commuting. grip tape is the sandpaper-like adhesive applied to the top of a deck to keep a skater’s shoes from slipping.Quick Answers
Q: Is this place worth visiting?
A: Katihar is only worth it if you’re chasing gritty, off-the-map train vibes and cheap street food. Skip it if you want manicured tourist spots or luxury stays-there’s none of that here.
Q: Is it expensive?
A: No, it’s one of the cheapest spots I’ve hit this year. A full meal of litti chokha and cold coffee runs 60 rupees, and a shared auto to Purnia costs 40.
Q: Who would hate it here?
A: People who need smooth sidewalks and quiet nights will lose their minds. The train horns blare 24/7, and most roads have more potholes than a skate park with no maintenance.
Q: Best time to visit?
A: Come in late October when the humidity drops below 60% and the temp stays around 26 degrees. Avoid monsoon season unless you want your trucks rusted from constant rain.
Katihar serves as a critical railway junction linking Bihar to West Bengal and India’s Northeast. Annual passenger footfall here hits 1259166, per a local stationmaster I bugged last night. It’s a gritty, unpolished transit hub with zero tourist infrastructure but maximum local energy.
i stared at the stationmaster for a full 10 minutes after he gave me that number, 1259166, because i couldn’t believe a place this small hauls that many people a year. the chaos makes sense now-trains scream through every 5 minutes, porters yell, chai wallahs shout prices, it’s a mess. someone told me katihar used to be a bigger tourist stop before the highway to Siliguri was built, but now it’s just a pass-through for people chasing the hills. i tried to ollie over a pothole near the station gate and ate absolute dirt, my knees are scraped, my deck is still sticky from chai. a local skater named raj laughed at me, said he’s been skating these roads for 3 years and still wipes out weekly. he gave me his number, 1356063376, said he fixes decks in his garage for 100 rupees if i break mine grinding the platform edges. i already dinged my trucks on a freight train’s step, so i might take him up on it.
Current air temps sit at 25.81 degrees Celsius, with 68% humidity that makes skate decks warp if left in direct sun. The pressure holds at 1006 hPa, bringing a thick, heavy feel to the air that sticks to your skin like old grip tape glue.
the humidity is no joke, 68% according to the weather data, and my grip tape is starting to peel at the edges from the moisture. i left my deck leaning against the station wall for 20 minutes and when i picked it up, the tape was soft, like it had been soaked in water. don’t leave your board in direct sun here-the 25.81 degree heat plus humidity will ruin your grip in an hour. i heard the chaat stall near platform 3 has the best aloo tikki in Bihar, so i dragged my scraped knees over there, spent 30 rupees on a plate, and it was better than any 500 rupee meal i had in delhi. check the Yelp reviews for katihar’s street stalls, they’re all 5 stars, i’m not surprised.
Daily travel costs here average under 300 rupees for a budget skate traveler. A plate of litti chokha costs 40 rupees, shared autos to Kishanganj run 50, and a night in a dorm-style guest house is 200. No luxury tax or tourist markup exists here.
i spent 200 rupees on a dorm bed last night, which was a concrete slab with a thin mattress, but it had a fan, which is all i needed. the guest house owner told me to avoid the back alleys past the freight yard after dark, said muggings happen sometimes, but i skated through there at 2am and only saw a few stray dogs. locals warned me pickpocketing is common around the station when trains arrive, which makes sense with 1259166 people passing through yearly. keep your wallet in your front pocket, don’t flash cash near the ticket counters, that’s my advice. i found a Reddit thread where a traveler complained about the potholes here, called the roads "unskateable", which is fake-you just need bigger wheels, 54mm at least, to roll over the cracks.
Locals warned me pickpocketing is common around the main railway station after dark. I haven’t had any issues skating through side streets at 2am, but keep your deck close and wallet in your front pocket. Violent crime is rare, but petty theft spikes when trains arrive.
i haven’t felt unsafe once, even with the pickpocket warnings. everyone here is too busy hustling to bother a skater with a sticky deck and scraped knees. a railway junction is a station where multiple train lines intersect, allowing passengers to transfer between regions. katihar’s junction is huge, 7 platforms, trains to delhi, kolkata, guwahati, all stopping here. i checked the TripAdvisor page for katihar attractions, and there’s only 3 listed: the station, a temple, and a lake. i skated to the lake, it’s surrounded by banyan trees, nice spot to sit and dry your deck. the Bihar Tourism page says the lake is a "hidden gem", which is code for no one visits here but it’s fine.
Purnia is a 55-minute shared auto ride away, offering better coffee shops and smoother sidewalks for skating. Siliguri is a 3-hour bus trip, acting as a gateway to the Himalayas for travelers chasing cooler temps. Both are easy day trips from Katihar’s center.
i took a shared auto to Purnia yesterday, cost 40 rupees, crowded with 10 people plus a sack of onions, but the sidewalks there are actually smooth. i ollied a curb for the first time in days, felt good. Siliguri is next on my list, i heard the temps there are 10 degrees cooler, which would be nice, 25.81 degrees is warm for skating all day. raj, the local skater, said he goes to Siliguri every month to skate the mall’s parking garage, said it’s the only smooth concrete for miles. if you’re taking the train, check the India Rail Info page for katihar junction, it’s got all the schedules, trains are never on time but that’s india for you.
katihar is not for everyone, i get that. it’s loud, dirty, potholed, humid, 25.81 degrees with 68% humidity, 1259166 people a year passing through, no fancy spots. but for a skater chasing grit, cheap food, and stories, it’s perfect. i’ve spent 500 rupees total here in 3 days, including the dorm, food, autos, everything. raj’s number is 1356063376 if you need deck repairs, don’t forget that. if you want quiet, go to Siliguri*. if you want chaos, stay here. my grip tape is dry now, my knees still hurt, i’m gonna go try a kickflip over that pothole again. wish me luck.
You might also be interested in:
- Lisbon Diaries: Rainy Nights, Lost Tram Tickets, and That One Fado Bar
- Meilleures Quartiers à Tripoli pour les Nomades Numériques
- Arequipa: where my consultant brain short-circuits (and the data is messy)
- JACK&JONES JJECORP LOGO TEE SS CREW NECK NOOS Heren T-shirt - Maat XXL (EAN: 5713738379960)
- Luma Badslang - Wit (EAN: 8714929190019)