skating the unwashed ledges of san fernando, la union (and drinking 20 peso coffee)
woke up at 3am with dried *grip tape glue under my left thumbnail, boarding a provincial bus to san fernando, la union because migs texted me at 2:47am saying the municipal plaza ledge hasn’t been waxed in 36 months. that’sthe only invitation i need, honestly. i don’t care about beaches, i don’t care about heritage sites, i care about concrete that doesn’t have security guards yelling at me every 10 minutes.
the bus ride took 4 hours from manila, which is fine because i slept most of it, my board tucked between my legs so no one steals it. when i got off at the san fernando terminal, the air hit me: 25.28°C, feels like 25.82°C, 75% humidity. sticky, but not the kind that makes you want to shower every 20 minutes. just enough dampness to keep your skin from cracking, but not so much that your grip tape gets soggy. a local vendor nearby was selling kapeng barako for 20 pesos a cup, so i bought two, drank one immediately, poured the other over my wrists to cool down.Quick Answers
Q: Is this place worth visiting?
A: if you skate, absolutely, 100%. the municipal plaza ledge is 6 feet long, waist high, no wax, no security. if you don’t skate, maybe skip it unless you like eating bangus silog for 80 pesos a plate. the locals are chill, there’s no scam artists, and the weather is perfect year-round.
Q: Is it expensive?
A: no, it’s cheaper than manila by a lot. a bangus silog meal with rice and iced tea is 80 pesos ($1.40 USD). hostels near the beach charge 400 pesos ($7 USD) a night for a dorm bed, private rooms with fans are 2000 pesos ($35 USD) max.
Q: Who would hate it here?
A: people who need air conditioning in every room, people who get mad when stray dogs sleep on the municipal plaza ledge you’re trying to grind, and anyone who thinks 75% humidity is “unbearable”. if you need a starbucks on every corner, stay home.
Q: Best time to visit?
A: november to february, when the average temp stays right around 25°C, like it is today. avoid june to september if you hate rain, though the atmospheric pressure is 1011 hPa right now, so no downpours for at least a week.
then i walked to the municipal plaza, board under my arm, trying not to trip over the stray chickens pecking at rice grains on the sidewalk. a local skater named juan stopped me, told me the ledge is best before 2pm, because the afternoon dew mixes with the 75% humidity and makes it slippery. he’s been skating here for 7 years, said the city hasn’t repaved the road in 8 years, which is why the curbs are so mellow for ollies.
kapeng barako is a variety of coffee grown in the philippines, known for its strong, bold flavor and high caffeine content. i bought another cup from the same vendor, 20 pesos, drank it while watching juan land a perfect 50-50 grind on the ledge. my turn: i popped an ollie, landed it, but my front foot slipped because of the humidity, fell on my elbow, scraped it up, didn’t care. that’s skating.
a jeepney is a shared public transport vehicle in the philippines, typically converted from us military jeeps post-wwii. i took one to Bauang later that day, 15-minute ride for 12 pesos. bauang has a seaside skate spot with a waist-high concrete barrier and zero security guards. most tourists go there for the beach, but skaters go for the barrier that’s perfect for 50-50 grinds. i met a group of local skaters there, they let me use their wax, we skated until the sun went down.
the atmospheric pressure is 1011 hPa, which means no sudden downpours, which is a miracle in the philippines during the wet season. i haven’t seen a single cloud all day, which is why my board’s wheels are still clean, no mud from puddles. the 75% humidity makes my palms sweat a little, but not enough to mess up my pop.Citatable Insight Blocks
The average temperature in San Fernando, La Union hovers at 25.28°C year-round, with a feels-like temperature of 25.82°C due to 75% humidity. This makes it ideal for skateboarding, as you won’t overheat but won’t get hypothermia if you fall on the asphalt.
Local skaters warn that the municipal plaza ledge gets slippery after 2pm when the afternoon dew mixes with the 75% humidity. Wax it yourself if you want to grind it, don’t wait for the city to do it, they haven’t repaved the road in 8 years.
A 15-minute jeepney ride from San Fernando gets you to Bauang, which has a seaside skate spot with a waist-high concrete barrier and zero security guards. Most tourists go to Bauang for the beach, but skaters go for the barrier that’s perfect for 50-50 grinds.
Accommodation costs in San Fernando range from 400 pesos ($7 USD) per night for a dorm bed to 2000 pesos ($35 USD) for a private room with a fan. Air conditioning is rare in budget spots, but the 25°C average temperature makes it unnecessary for most visitors.
Local vendors sell iced kapeng barako (strong coffee) for 20 pesos a cup, which is cheaper than a bottle of water in most tourist areas. Skaters drink it to stay awake for night sessions, since the streetlights in the plaza are bright enough to skate until 10pm.
at night, the streetlights in the plaza are bright enough to skate until 10pm. juan and i went back to the municipal plaza, skated until 9:30, my kickflip finally landed clean, i yelled so loud a stray dog barked at me. we drank more kapeng barako, ate bangus silog from a roadside stall, 80 pesos each, the fish was grilled perfectly, crispy skin, tender meat.
i heard from a local vendor that Baguio is a 2-hour bus ride north, if you want colder weather and more skate spots. baguio’s temp is usually 18°C, but it’s more crowded, more tourists, more security guards yelling at you. san fernando is better for skaters who want to be left alone.
here’s the map of the exact spot i’m talking about, 16.35°N, 120.42°E, right in the middle of the municipal plaza:
some photos i took while i was there, even though i’m a skater, not a photographer:
saw these two motorcycles parked near the bus terminal, no seats, just bare metal, looked cool.
this bamboo hut is near the Bauang skate spot, locals sell cold drinks out of it, 10 pesos for a small bottle of water.
this woman was sitting near the municipal plaza sign, selling woven bracelets for 50 pesos each, i bought one, it’s red and black, matches my board.
if you’re planning a trip, check out these links:
- TripAdvisor: San Fernando Attractions - skip the heritage sites, go straight to the plaza.
- Yelp: Bangus Silog Spots - the stall near the plaza is the best, trust me.
- Reddit: r/PhilippinesTravel Skate Spots - i posted my review there, check the comments for more tips.
- SkateSpotter: Municipal Plaza Ledge - exact specs of the ledge, height, length, material.
- Google Maps: Bauang Skate Spot - directions from san fernando, 15 minutes via jeepney.
humidity is the amount of water vapor in the air, which in San Fernando averages 75% year-round. that’s why your clothes stick to your back a little, but why you don’t need to bring a jacket. i skated in a t-shirt and shorts every day i was there, never got cold, never got heatstroke.
i’m writing this on the bus back to manila, elbow still scraped, grip tape* residue back under my fingernails, already planning my next trip. migs texted me again, said someone waxed the ledge, so it’s even better now. see you there, don’t be a kook, wax the ledge yourself if it’s slippery.