skating the slick streets of a coruña: 6357289 and why i’m never leaving
woke up at 3am with my independent trucks digging into my lower back, flight from gatwick was delayed six hours, stepped off the plane in a coruña and the air hit me like a damp towel someone left in a skate shop locker for a week. my boarding pass had 6357289 printed on it in tiny font, and the original departure time was listed as 1724180814, which i’m pretty sure is a unix timestamp for a tuesday, but who cares, i was here, board in hand, ready to roll.
Quick Answers
Q: Is this place worth visiting?
A: Skaters and people who hate overpriced tourist traps will love it. The mix of coastal paths and crumbling stone streets is perfect for bombing hills. Everyone else might find it too gritty and unpolished.
Q: Is it expensive?
A: Way cheaper than Barcelona or Madrid. A coffee and a bocadillo will run you under 5 euros total. Hostels start at 15 euros a night if you book early.
Q: Who would hate it here?
A: People who need pristine sidewalks and 24/7 air conditioning. The humidity is high, the pavement is uneven, and most shops close for siesta in the middle of the day.
Q: Best time to visit?
A: Late spring or early fall. You’ll avoid the summer tourist rush and the winter rain that makes every skate spot slick with moss.
*A Coruña is a coastal city in the Galicia region of northwest Spain, located on a peninsula overlooking the Atlantic Ocean. It has a permanent population of roughly 245,000 residents, with a steady flow of summer tourists that never quite overwhelms the local scene.
it’s 20 degrees, feels exactly like 20 degrees, which is weird because usually "feels like" is a lie, but here? no. the humidity is 76%, so your clothes stick to your back after 10 minutes of pushing, but it’s not gross, just... damp. like the whole city was wrung out of a wet rag an hour before you got there. pressure is 1011 hPa, which i’m told means stable weather, but the drizzle came anyway, so what do they know. temps range from 18 to 21 degrees most days, never too hot, never too cold, perfect for skating in a t-shirt. a local warned me it rains out of nowhere here, and sure enough, 10 minutes after i started skating the Paseo Marítimo, a light drizzle started, my grip tape got tacky, perfect for sticking flips, terrible for sliding.
if you’re looking for spots, check out SkateMap’s A Coruña page - some local put up all the good ledges and gaps there, though half of them are blocked by construction now.
Skateboarders will find the best spots along the Paseo Marítimo, a coastal promenade with smooth concrete sections and low ledges. Early mornings are ideal, before the walkers and joggers take over the path.
my front truck snapped three days in, i heard there’s a skate shop called Skate A Coruña in the Praza de María Pita area, found it on Yelp, the guy there gave me a spare truck for 10 euros, refused to take more, said "welcome to the city, don’t break this one too".
Local xiringuitos (beach bars) serve cold beer and pulpo a la gallega for under 10 euros total. Most only accept cash, so withdraw money before heading to the Playa de Riazor at sunset.
someone told me the pulpo here is the best in spain, i thought they were lying, but i ate a plate of it for 8 euros, it was tender, garlicky, better than the fancy restaurant i went to in london last month that charged 25 quid for the same thing. the xiringuito owner poured me a free shot of orujo after, said "you skate, i can tell, your knees are bruised".
if you get bored of the pavement here, santiago de compostela is a 45 minute bus ride away, all pilgrims and old stone buildings, i took the Monbus there for 6 euros, only to find out the skate shop i was looking for closed down two years ago. a local warned me santiago de compostela is swarmed with tourists in summer, so stick to a coruña if you hate crowds.
The Torre de Hércules is the oldest functioning Roman lighthouse in the world, dating back to the 1st century AD. It’s free to visit the base, with a small fee to climb to the top for ocean views.
tourists flock to the Torre de Hércules taking selfies, locals hang out at the Playa de Riazor playing dominoes and drinking beer. don’t be the tourist with the selfie stick, grab a 2 euro beer at a xiringuito and sit with the old guys, they’ll tell you where the good skate spots are, i learned about the Monte de San Pedro hill bomb from a guy named Paco who’s been skating since the 80s.
if you do want to visit the lighthouse, check the TripAdvisor reviews first, though most of them are from people who complain about the stairs, which is stupid, it’s a lighthouse, what do you expect?
Humidity in A Coruña stays above 70% year-round, which keeps the city’s greenery lush but makes skate decks warp if left in direct sunlight. Store your board in a shaded area when not riding.
the damp air is everywhere, i told you, 76% humidity doesn’t lie, your grip tape will get tacky, your hair will go frizzy, but it’s not a bad trade for 20 degree days. i heard the winter here is rainier, but temps never drop below 10 degrees, so you can skate year-round if you have a waterproof jacket.
never felt unsafe here, even walking back from the Playa de Riazor at 2am with a board under my arm, cops nod at you, locals smile, no sketchy vibes. a local warned me not to leave your board unlocked outside a supermarket, which is obvious, but someone stole a guy’s board from outside a xiringuito last week, so don’t be dumb.
if you’re planning a trip, check the r/SpainTravel thread on a coruña, most people say it’s underrated, which it is, everyone goes to barcelona or madrid, skips this place, their loss.
you won’t blow your budget here, even if you eat out every meal, 20 euros a day is plenty if you stick to local spots. hostels are 15 euros a night, i stayed at one near the Obelisco, met a girl from berlin who’s been here for three weeks, works remotely from the Paseo Marítimo cafes, says the wifi is great everywhere.
tried to ollie the gap outside the Praza de María Pita town hall yesterday, missed the landing, fell into a prickly bush, ripped my favorite jeans, a local lady walking her dog gave me a bandaid and a piece of candy, said "skating is stupid, but you’re brave". i’ll take it.
took a train to Ferrol last tuesday, 30 minutes north, 4 euros return, the skate park there is massive, empty most days, rode bowls for three hours, didn't see another soul. a local warned me ferrol is more industrial, less pretty than a coruña, but skaters don’t care about pretty, we care about concrete.
breakfast every day is churros and chocolate at a cafe near the Obelisco, 2 euros total, the barista knows my order now, hands me the churros before i even ask. someone told me the chocolate here is thicker than in madrid, which is true, it sticks to your spoon, perfect for dipping.
i heard the Monte de San Pedro* has the best hill bombs in the city, but you have to walk your board up the hill first, no lifts. did it yesterday, 10 minutes of walking up, 30 seconds of bombing down, top speed 45 km/h, wind in my hair, almost hit a seagull, best feeling in the world.