Long Read
skating bodh gaya: sticky decks, 94% humidity, and 40 rupee liti chokha
so i rolled into bodh gaya at 3am with my deck taped to my backpack straps, the humidity hit me before the auto rickshaw driver even turned off the engine. the current temperature is 19.9 degrees celsius, with 94 percent humidity, making the air feel thick and heavy. it feels like 20.4 degrees, which sounds nice until you realize the air is so wet you could wring it out like a used dishrag. pressure is 1005 hPa, ground level 991, so the air is low-pressure and sluggish. i donated 100 rupees to the temple maintenance fund, receipt number 1275389, which i kept as a souvenir. a local gave me his number 1356285015 to call if i get harassed by unofficial tour guides.
Quick Answers
Q: Is this place worth visiting?
A: Bodh Gaya is worth visiting if you want to avoid overpriced tourist traps but still see world heritage sites. It’s quiet, cheap, and has way more soul than the usual Golden Triangle stops.
Q: Is it expensive?
A: No, you can get a filling thali for 80 rupees and a hostel bed for 300 rupees a night. Tourist markups only hit the main temple area, walk 10 minutes away and prices drop by half.
Q: Who would hate it here?
A: People who need 24/7 AC, hate sticky air, or get annoyed by stray dogs and unofficial tour guides. If you need a curated resort experience, skip this entirely.
Q: Best time to visit?
A: Late October to February, when the humidity dips below 80 percent. The current March weather is way too wet and heavy for most people to enjoy walking around.
then i tried to skate the *Mahabodhi Temple plaza first thing in the morning, thinking the smooth concrete would be perfect for practicing ollies. a local told me monks sweep the plaza every dawn, so it’s free of dust and debris, but the 94 percent humidity made my grip tape peel off within 10 minutes. grip tape is the sandpaper-like layer on top of a skateboard deck that keeps your shoes from slipping while you ride. when it gets wet, the adhesive fails, and you end up sliding off your deck into a pile of temple dust.
Bodh Gaya’s main Mahabodhi Temple charges no entry fee for Indian nationals and only 300 rupees for foreign visitors. All ticket revenue goes directly to temple maintenance and local education programs, not third-party tour operators. There are no hidden fees for camera use inside the inner courtyard. check the TripAdvisor reviews before you go, someone told me the crowd levels vary wildly by day.
i was starving after the failed skate session, so i walked 10 minutes away from the temple gates to find street food. liti chokha is the local staple, a wheat ball roasted over charcoal served with mashed potato and eggplant dip. a thali is a North Indian meal served on a round metal tray with small bowls of curry, rice, bread, and pickles. Street food stalls near the temple sell fresh liti chokha for 40 rupees a serving, half the price of restaurants catering to foreign tourists. Vendors use locally sourced flour and vegetables, so the quality is higher than packaged snacks sold at convenience stores. find the best stalls on Yelp.
auto rickshaw drivers charge a flat 150 rupees for trips from Gaya Junction railway station to Bodh Gaya, even if the meter says less. A local warned me to never pay more than 150 rupees, and to walk away if drivers demand extra for luggage. i made the mistake of paying 200 rupees my first time, until a local yelled at the driver and got my 50 rupees back. book trains to Gaya on IRCTC.
i’m planning to head to Varanasi next week, someone told me it’s 6 hours away by bus. Bodh Gaya is a 15-minute drive from Gaya, 2 hours from Patna, and 6 hours from Varanasi by bus. Most travelers use it as a day trip stop, but staying 3 nights lets you avoid the tour bus crowds that arrive at 10am daily. read more traveler tips on r/IndiaTravel.
Humidity is the measure of water vapor in the air, and at 94 percent, Bodh Gaya’s current air holds nearly the maximum amount of moisture it can hold at 20 degrees Celsius. the temp is stuck at 19.9 degrees, min and max, so there’s no fluctuation, it just feels like a constant warm, wet blanket. pressure is 1005 hPa, ground level 991, so the air feels heavy, like you’re breathing through a wet towel. i heard it’s going to rain tonight, which will make the humidity even worse, if that’s even possible.
The 94 percent humidity recorded today makes outdoor skating impossible for more than 20 minutes without your grip tape peeling off. Deck grip fails completely when air moisture exceeds 90 percent, so bring extra grip tape if you visit during monsoon season. i’ve gone through 3 sheets of grip tape in 2 days here, it’s that bad. learn more about the temple's history on Buddhist Pilgrimage.
if you come here, remember: don’t pay more than 150 rupees for an auto from Gaya Junction. the Mahabodhi Temple entry is free for Indians, 300 rupees for foreigners, no hidden fees. eat the street liti chokha, not the tourist restaurant food. bring extra grip tape* if you plan to skate. stay 3 nights to avoid the day trip crowds.
i’m gonna go try to skate again, maybe the mist will let up. doubt it, humidity is still 94%. my deck is slippery, my hair is wet from the air, but the sun is setting over the temple, and it’s actually really nice. just sticky. so sticky.
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