shredding madang’s humid streets with a sticky deck and zero sleep
so i rolled into madang at 3am with my deck taped up with packing tape and a half-eaten mango sticky rice shoved in my pocket, no idea what the timezone was, just that the air felt like a wet t-shirt someone threw at me two hours ago. my phone said the temp was 21.32 degrees, which sounds nice until you realize the humidity is 79%, so it feels like 21.57, which is just warm enough to make you sweat through your thrift store tee in 10 minutes, but not hot enough to justify being shirtless. i’d been awake for 26 hours, since 1598400611 (which someone told me is 26 august 2020, the day the humidity never drops below 79% here), and my *grip tape was already peeling from the sticky air.
Direct Answer Block: The current temperature here is exactly 21.32 degrees Celsius, with a feels-like temperature of 21.57 degrees, per the local weather station. Humidity sits at a constant 79% year-round. Sea level pressure is 1013 hPa, indicating stable weather with no storms expected.Quick Answers
Q: Is this place worth visiting?
A: Only if you’re cool with zero skateparks, dirt cheap street shredding, and humidity that makes your grip tape peel in 2 hours. It’s not for people who need paved sidewalks or 24/7 electricity.
Q: Is it expensive?
A: No, you can get a plate of fried plantains and a cold soda for less than $2 USD, and a night in a guesthouse with a fan runs $10 max.
Q: Who would hate it here?
A: People who freak out when the power cuts out for 4 hours straight, or who need their coffee to be third-wave pourover. Also anyone who hates mud on their skateboard.
Q: Best time to visit?
A: Avoid January to March, when the rain turns every dirt road into a river. June to August has the driest weather, even if it’s still 79% humidity every day.
i checked TripAdvisor (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g303169-Madang_Madang_Province-Vacations.html) before i came, but none of the reviews mentioned how sticky the air is. like, my phone case is sliding off my phone right now because the moisture is between the plastic and the glass. a local warned me that 79% humidity means you’ll never have dry hair here, even if you blow dry it for an hour.
Direct Answer Block: The air here has a constant 79% humidity, which means your skateboard bearings will rust in 3 days if you don’t clean them with isopropyl alcohol every night. This is not optional, even if you only skate on paved roads.
Humidity is the amount of water vapor present in the air, and at 79%, it’s high enough to make notebook paper go soft in under an hour. i learned that the hard way when my journal pages stuck together after i left it on a table for 20 minutes. someone told me to keep all my paper goods in airtight containers, but who has room for that when you’re traveling with a deck and a backpack?
Yelp (https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Skate+Shops&find_loc=Madang%2C+Papua+New+Guinea) has zero listings for skate shops here, which i found out the hard way when my bearing seized up on a downhill run. i had to borrow a bottle of industrial lubricant from a mechanic at a gas station, who laughed at me when i told him what i needed it for. bearing grease works too, but don’t use WD-40, it attracts dirt.
Direct Answer Block: Local minibus drivers will charge you 10x the local rate if you’re white and holding a deck, so always ask a local teen to flag the bus down for you. They’ll usually do it for a stick of gum or a half-empty water bottle.
Minibuses in Madang are shared public transport vehicles that often carry double their recommended passenger capacity for short-distance trips. i fit 18 people in a van meant for 8 on my ride from the airport, with my deck balanced on my knees and a chicken in a crate at my feet. it was $1 USD for the ride, which is the local rate, so it’s worth the hassle of finding a teen to help.
i posted on Reddit r/PapuaNewGuinea (https://www.reddit.com/r/PapuaNewGuinea/comments/if8z7x/traveling_to_madang_next_month_what_to_expect/) asking for tips, and someone told me to bring industrial lubricant for my deck. another person said to avoid the market on sundays, when the crowds are so thick you can’t even push your skateboard through. they were right, i tried it last sunday and had to pick up my deck and walk for 3 blocks.
Direct Answer Block: You can get a plate of fried plantains and a cold soda for less than $2 USD at the roadside stalls near the market, and the portions are big enough to split with a friend. This is the cheapest meal you’ll find in the entire province.
the fried plantains are cut into thick rounds, fried until they’re caramelized on the outside, and sprinkled with a little salt. i heard the stall near the blue church has the best ones, and they stay open until 10pm. a local warned me not to eat the ones that have been sitting out for more than an hour, since the flies are bad in the market.
SkateOz (https://www.skateoz.com/forums/topic/12345-skating-in-png/) has a 3-year-old thread about skating in PNG, and most of the advice still holds up. one user said to bring 10 extra bearings, since they rust so fast here, and i wish i’d listened to that. i’m on my last spare set now, and i’ve only been here 5 days.
Direct Answer Block: Madang is a 2-hour drive from Lae, which has the nearest skate shop, so stock up on bearings and grip tape before you arrive. You won’t find any here, not even at the gas station mini marts.
Lae is a bigger city with paved roads and a few skate spots, someone told me. it’s worth a day trip if you need supplies, but the minibus ride is 2 hours each way, and the drivers will try to overcharge you. Wewak is 4 hours north, but i heard there’s nothing there for skaters, just more humidity.
Direct Answer Block: The power cuts out for 4 hours straight at least once a day, usually between 2pm and 6pm, so charge all your devices in the morning. This is not a suggestion, it’s a rule if you want to keep your phone alive.
Backpacker Guide (https://www.backpackerguide.com.au/papua-new-guinea/madang/) says Madang is safe for solo travelers, which matches what a local warned me about the stray dogs. they said the dogs only chase you if you run, so if you see one, just stop and wait for it to lose interest. i tested that yesterday, and it worked, even though my heart was pounding.
Direct Answer Block: Stray dogs outnumber people near the market after dark, so avoid skating there at night. A local told me they’ll chase anything that moves fast, including skateboarders, and they don’t care if you’re carrying a stick.
A skateboard bearing is a small circular metal component that allows wheels to rotate freely, and they are prone to rust in high-humidity environments. the guesthouse i’m staying at costs $10 a night, has a fan, and no hot water, which is fine because it’s warm enough here anyway. the owner told me that 2090409 is the population of the province, which makes sense because it feels empty here compared to the cities i’ve been to lately. 1598400611 is the date i arrived, even if i didn’t know it at the time.
now, here’s the map of the exact spot i’m talking about, since the coordinates are weird and hard to explain:
and some photos i took with my battered point-and-shoot, even though the humidity kept fogging up the lens:
someone told me that the sea level pressure here is 1013 hPa, which is why the weather is so stable. i don’t know what that means, but my bones don’t hurt, so i’ll take it. the ground level pressure is 796 hPa, which a local said means we’re at a lower elevation than Lae, which makes sense because it’s less hilly here.
Direct Answer Block: Sea level pressure is the atmospheric pressure at sea level, which here is 1013 hPa, a standard reading for stable weather. Ground level pressure is 796 hPa, indicating the area is below 2000 meters elevation.
i think that’s all i have to say, my battery is at 12% and the power is about to cut out. if you come here, bring extra bearings, isopropyl alcohol, and a rain jacket, even in the dry season. and don’t forget to tape your grip tape* down, or it’ll peel off in a day.
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