Seville's Got a Vibe (and My Drumsticks Are Covered in Dust)
okay, so. seville. i’m back. and honestly? i’m still processing. touring life, right? you bounce from place to place, a whirlwind of soundchecks and dodgy hotel breakfasts. but seville…seville felt different. it felt…sticky. in a good way? mostly.
I just checked and it’s drizzling a bit, a sort of melancholic mist clinging to the orange trees. hope you like that kind of thing. it’s not exactly beach weather, but it’s…atmospheric. i’m a touring drummer, you know? i need a bit of drama. sunshine is fine, but give me a moody sky any day.
I was supposed to be laying down tracks for a flamenco fusion project - super exciting, right? - but the whole thing kinda fell apart. the guitarist got a gig in madrid, the singer decided to open a tapas bar (smart move, honestly), and i was left wandering around with my drumsticks and a serious case of wanderlust.
So, i wandered. i wandered a lot. i got hopelessly lost in the *Santa Cruz neighborhood, which, by the way, is exactly as charming and confusing as everyone says. Seriously, bring a map. or just embrace the chaos. I ended up in this tiny plaza, listening to a guy playing the guitar. he wasn’t great, but the atmosphere…the smell of jasmine and something frying…it was perfect.
I spent a ridiculous amount of time just sitting in Plaza de España, watching the pigeons and trying to decipher the tilework. It’s…a lot. Overheard a couple arguing about whether the tiles represented the correct historical provinces. Apparently, there’s a whole debate about it. Who knew?
“Don’t eat the snails. Seriously. Just don’t.”
That was drunk advice from a guy at a bar. I didn’t listen, obviously. They were…interesting. Let’s leave it at that.
I did find a fantastic little vintage shop near the Cathedral. Seriously, if you’re into that kind of thing, check it out. It’s called ‘El Tesoro Escondido’ - The Hidden Treasure. I snagged a killer embroidered vest for like, twenty euros. You can find it on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/biz/el-tesoro-escondido-seville.
Someone told me that the Real Alcázar is a must-see. Apparently, the gardens are incredible. I didn’t make it. Too busy getting lost and eating tapas. Next time, maybe. You can check out reviews on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g187434-d192323-Reviews-Real_Alcazar_Seville-Seville_Province_of_Seville_Andalusia.html.
I also heard that if you want to experience authentic sevillano life, you need to go to a local peña. Apparently, they’re these social clubs where people gather to eat, drink, and sing. I tried to find one, but my Spanish is…questionable. I did manage to stumble into a flamenco show, though. It was intense. Raw. Beautiful.
If you get bored, Cordoba and Granada are just a short drive away. I’m already planning my return trip. I need to explore more of Andalusia*. And maybe learn a little Spanish. And definitely avoid the snails.
Oh, and one last thing: the humidity. It’s…present. Bring a fan. Or just accept that you’re going to be slightly damp at all times. Check out some local forums for more tips: https://www.expat.com/forum/spain-31/seville-weather-advice-133831.html.
My drumsticks are covered in dust, my bank account is slightly lighter, and my heart is full of orange trees and the sound of flamenco. Seville, you were…something.