Salvador, Bahia: Humidity, Drum Circles, and a Whole Lot of 'Wait, What?'
okay, so i’m currently sweating through everything i own in *Salvador, Bahia. it’s…sticky. like, walking-through-jelly sticky. i just checked and it’s basically a sauna out there, with the air hanging heavy like a wet blanket. apparently, the humidity is at one hundred percent, which honestly feels about right. my hair has a mind of its own, and i’m pretty sure my camera lens is permanently fogged.
i’m a touring session drummer, which means i spend a lot of time in questionable venues, but this place…this place is different. i came here on a whim, chasing a rumor about insane percussion circles in the Pelourinho. and let me tell you, the rumor doesn’t even begin to cover it. it’s not just drumming; it’s a full-blown, street-shutting-down, spiritual experience. i’ve been trying to blend in, mostly failing, and mostly just trying not to get completely lost in the rhythm.
the temperature’s hovering around twenty-two point seven four degrees, which doesn’t sound that bad, but the ‘feels like’ is pushing twenty-three point six eight. it’s the kind of heat that makes you question all your life choices. i’ve been living off acarajé (those fried bean cakes - seriously addictive) and lukewarm Guaraná (the local soda). my stomach is…adjusting.
i’ve been staying in a tiny guesthouse near the Mercado Modelo. the walls are paper thin, and i swear my neighbor practices capoeira at 3 am. if you get restless, Porto Seguro and Ilhéus are just a quick bus ride away. i overheard someone at a bar saying the beaches there are way less crowded, but honestly, i’m too captivated by the chaos here to leave just yet.
someone told me that the best way to experience the city is to just wander, get lost, and accept that you will be ripped off at least once. they weren’t wrong.
i tried to find a decent coffee shop, but it’s mostly instant coffee or super-sweetened espresso. as a drummer, caffeine is a necessity, so this is a serious issue. i did find a little place on Yelp that supposedly makes a decent brew, but it was closed when i went. i’ll try again tomorrow.
i’ve been trying to learn a few phrases in Portuguese, but it’s…challenging. i mostly just end up pointing and smiling. i heard that the locals appreciate the effort, even if you butcher the pronunciation. i also heard that you should never ask about the price of anything without knowing the exchange rate. apparently, tourists get taken for a ride all the time. check out TripAdvisor for some tips on avoiding scams.
the pressure is at one zero one one, and the ground level is nine ninety four. honestly, i have no idea what that means, but it sounds important. i’m mostly just focused on staying hydrated and not melting into a puddle.
i stumbled upon a local music shop and picked up a set of pandeiro (a Brazilian tambourine). it’s surprisingly difficult to play, but i’m determined to master it. i’m thinking of joining one of the street circles, but i’m terrified of embarrassing myself.
someone warned me about pickpockets in the Elevador Lacerda* (the elevator connecting the upper and lower cities). they said it’s a hot spot for thieves, so keep your belongings close. i’ve been wearing a cross-body bag, which seems to be working so far. you can find more safety advice on Lonely Planet.
i’m starting to think i need a new shirt. and maybe a whole new wardrobe. and possibly a dehumidifier. but honestly? i wouldn’t trade this chaos for anything. it’s messy, it’s loud, it’s humid, and it’s utterly captivating. check out this local forum for more info: Salvador Bahia Online.
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